Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Morayfield Smash Repairs are a family run, but still very large (like, 7 kids) business who do quality work on porsches, old toranas, skylies and of course my own car ETC. Get ahold of steven and say Rob with e green stagea pu you onto them. Did a fair bit of custom work for me, brilliant job, minimal hrs (= minimal price).

post-24895-1165758474.jpgpost-24895-1165758567.jpg

Edited by qikstagea

hey mate, i can highly recommend "Exclusive Auto Centre", they are in New Farm ph 3852 2539

they rolled my guards and did a fantastic job, no cracks at all, and this was with one side of my car having been previously painted over the stock paint!

they aren't the cheapest as they are an official repairer for ferrari, maserati and audi, but they do their shit well

the guy's name is Nick

hope that helps you out

cheers,

Warren

Morayfield Smash Repairs are a family run, but still very large (like, 7 kids) business who do quality work on porsches, old toranas, skylies and of course my own car ETC. Get ahold of steven and say Rob with e green stagea pu you onto them. Did a fair bit of custom work for me, brilliant job, minimal hrs (= minimal price).

post-24895-1165758474.jpgpost-24895-1165758567.jpg

i had my car repaired through these guys under insurance.... i won't say anything bad about them, but i'm not 100% happy with their repair work... i mean, for your average, every day pleb car, it would probably be 'fine' but i'm a fussy bastard....

paint wasn't matched properly (though it's very hard to tell), there are fisheyes through it, plus a couple of other things...

i can't have been TOO pissed off at them though, as i took another front bar to them to get sprayed :laugh:

there is a place opposite "Gun Performance" at stafford that i had repair my car when it was rear-ended as well as weld up the holes in my boot from the spoiler/respray the bootlid.... they did a rather good job, and for a decent price too... they only charged me $220 inc. GST to weld up the bootlid and respray it.... i always see them with imports etc in there getting work done.

i can't for the life of me remember their name though....

yeah carey at lowdown customs is a personal freind of mine he is good at what he does ;) also he should have his stagea by now as well :P

Yeah carey does a good job he did a custom job on my front bar and sprayed my bodykit.

Also srayed my dads Torana. Awesome job.

And yes he has his stagea.

K & J smash repairs are the place accross the road from Gun Performance, They are definitely worth checking out. Danny, the owner is a great bloke and they do very good work!

That's them!

Thanks for that, and yes, Danny is a champ... he put up with my constant questions and checking up on how things were going :wave:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...