Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've been pondering this same question myself...

I want to mount my amp on a fake vertical wall, so it can be seen but will not reduce boot space.

Fhrx - I've never seen a sub mounted in that little void, how well does a 10" work in there? Do subs work better when you face them towards the front of the car, or will it sound pretty much the same, with the 10 inch facing up to the parcel shelf?

  • 2 weeks later...
I've been pondering this same question myself...

I want to mount my amp on a fake vertical wall, so it can be seen but will not reduce boot space.

Fhrx - I've never seen a sub mounted in that little void, how well does a 10" work in there? Do subs work better when you face them towards the front of the car, or will it sound pretty much the same, with the 10 inch facing up to the parcel shelf?

from experience you get the nicest/clearest base if you mount the subs in an more open area, eg the boot itself not the small area next to the battery. now i know you lose boot space, which wasnt really a concern for me but might be for others. it just depends what your after...

personally i have 2 12inch pioneer 400watt rms in a box which is facing towards the rear of my 33, but on a slight angle (the way the box is designed) ie subs face slightly upward... im into R&B sorta music so base was pretty important for me... doin it this way i found gives best results! i tried facing them towards the cabin as well as two seperate small boxes on either side but found that there was not enough reverberation (basically echoing and movement of sound waves reflecting off surfaces). because the boot overall is quite small in the r33 (compared to say commodores) it is much harder to achieve the same amount of base. A good way to achieve more base is to use a ported box instead, i myself wil be upgrading to one for my 2 12inch subs soon. apparently you can achieve up to 25% more base out of them!

well i hope that helps answer your questions :-s

Jon

you could set it up like mine. the only thing you have to remember is to allow some space in between the rear of the box and the tail lights just incase you need to change globes. i just had the carpet extend under a faulty 3mm timber kicker.

the bcak panel still needs to be carpeted but you get the picture. its on a hinge so it drops down tto access battery and then also i have mounted a seperate bracket to hold the jack there too as my spare tyre is till readily accessible in the middle of the subs.

if you have any questions ask.

i got 2x10" CV Comp series subs and a US Boss audio amp.

cheers

daniel

post-31466-1167378293.jpg

post-31466-1167378306.jpg

post-31466-1167378316.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...