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one thing you can try is take the wastegate arm off the flapper and wire open the wastegate you should make no boost if it does create boost then the wastegate hole is to small. if so whip the turbo off and port out the wastegate hole either yourself if your feel confident to do so, or get some one to do it for for you.

also take off the lever/arm off the flapper with the dump pipe on and operate it by hand see if it catches anywhere. BATMBL dump pipes in my opinion are the bomb but are designed for a stock turbo your hks one although is made to be the same may have a suttle difference in the flapper i dare say it may actually be larger so check what i said above and make sure it doesnt foul on the dump simple fix for that is to get out the die grinder.

if you have alook at my old posts ive gone through all this before so you may find some help in there

does anyone have any instructions or pics of porting out the standard wastegate?

ive got the same problem, and dont wanna have to fork out for an external gate.

when you port out the gate, do you need to replace the flapper valve as well? or is it big enough that it can cover a slightly larger hole just as well?

does anyone have any instructions or pics of porting out the standard wastegate?

ive got the same problem, and dont wanna have to fork out for an external gate.

when you port out the gate, do you need to replace the flapper valve as well? or is it big enough that it can cover a slightly larger hole just as well?

you will first need to remove the turbo, depending on how much overlap the flapper has over the wastegate hole will determine if you will need a new flapper.

ideally you want 2mm of overlap after you port it, if less than 2mm the flapper may not full seal and you will need to replace it with a larger flapper. (if it doesn't seal you will lose response)

you need to remove the exhaust housing off the turbo so you don't get crap left in the housing, remember to smooth the surface on the inside of the exhaust hosuing too. personally I am going to remove my turbo take mine to a turbo shop and pay them to do it for me to solve my boost creep issues

Before possible wasting your time and money on uneccessary solutions.

Firstly, inspect the hose connecting your wastegate actuator

to your intercooler return pipe. It may have a split or hair-line crack,

which are hard to spot. At the cost of $5 I would replace it.

A leak in this hose will bleed off air and cause

your turbo to reach high boost levels, causing its destruction.

Secondly, before removing your dump to inspect the wastegate

valve supposedly hitting your dump-pipe.

Use a needle-nose air squirter hooked up to an air compressor,

remove the hose off the actuator and stick the needle into the

actuator's nipple and squirt some air into it.

Your actuator should open-up quite freely, it can easily be heard.

You should be able to hear wether or not its hitting the dump-pipe.

If it does not hit the dump, but opens up slowly with lots of air

pressure, you might have a sticky actuator.

In this case, your better off purchasing a 12psi adjustable actuator.

From recent experiences, it would be wise not to get a universal

actuator and bend and heat the rod to suit your application.

Purchase a U-shaped rod, if required from the turbo place.

Hope this solves your problems. :(

Cheers,

Bill

Edited by Nabil

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