Jump to content
SAU Community

Need Specialist Advice

Pauly33GTS-t

By Pauly33GTS-t,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

Pauly33GTS-t Veteran

Pauly33GTS-t

Posted
Posted

Alrite fellas I need some ideas,

im gonna be paying for the car on wednesday it looks like it when the report from the RAA comes to me 2moro night. then ill have 3 or so grande left over to mod it a bit, its sitting at 153kw and it has aftermarket air filter and after market exhaust. has 2 BOV sitting in it too but 1 is disconnected. I am getting rid of the blitz BOV and the other one (i forget what it is cause i am skeptical) but I'm asking the people. what would you do to a stockie when u got 3 grande. and no i dont want after market rims n shit cause i get free rubber for the stock rim size from bridgestone. (family rates pretty much). im not big on show i mean ill lower it a bit but im more interested in power, and sleeper look. Also, to make this SA specific, who are the guys to see for their individual specialities on mods.

would suspension/ FMIC and external waste gate be on the order top of the list?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/146925-need-specialist-advice/
Share on other sites
mr_rbman Grand Master

mr_rbman

Posted
Posted

why an external gate....................you do know what they are?

You've basically answered your own questions. See sydneykid for the groupbuy on suspension and one of the sponsors will do you a good deal on an intercooler kit which should leave you some cash to get it installed if your not too mechanically minded and if you have enough free cash get a fuel pump.

4door_Sleeper Veteran

4door_Sleeper

Posted
Posted

Ok, here is the stock list you need to get the power you want

Exhaust - (u have it already) but make sure you have a split dump pipe on it

Cold air intake - You could add a pod in a box (ie Maxx's group buy) or just get a decent panel filter for the stock box (good for over 200rwkw and the cheapest option)

Intercooler - Dont need anything too special, just a reasonable front mout will do the job.

Boost controller - a simple bleed valve if the budget is tight, but some of the electronic ones are available at great prices (especially second hand) and are well worth the cost as they offer much etter control and protect against oost spikes and drop off.

Fuel pump - if yours is stock and the car has over 80,000km its probably going to struggle with the bigger horsepower, so check it out and replace if necessary

Electronic fuel and ignition management - I prefer the PFC, but their are other options (again second hand is fine)

Dyno the whole lot once all of this has been installed.

As mentioned SydneyKid has a great group buy on suspension, but if cash is running out at least invest in a set of pinapples.

This setup also gives you a sound base if you want more power in the future - just add a new turbo, and perhaps bigger injectors or a rising rate fuel regulator.

If the car is close to 100,000km you will also need some cash for a new timing belt and water pump.

Hope this helps.

Pauly33GTS-t Veteran

Pauly33GTS-t

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for this guys, i will remember it, will follow this advice for any skyline i end up getting, either the one 2moro or if that doesnt work out, the stock one ill buy after christmas.

OZ_Pomy Rising Star

OZ_Pomy

Posted
Posted

Insurance would be the first mod i would be doing :/ if you werent planng on that. Apart from that the usual

cold air intake

clutch

fuel pump

intercooler

exhaust

boost controller

aftermarket computer

these arnt listed in any order but with the lot you should hopefully be around the 200 rwkw range :laugh:

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted
Thanks for this guys, i will remember it, will follow this advice for any skyline i end up getting, either the one 2moro or if that doesnt work out, the stock one ill buy after christmas.

Thats the way SAZilla... Don't jump in to buying something if it doesn't 'feel right' Even though its so hard not too. ;)

Pauly33GTS-t Veteran

Pauly33GTS-t

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hey fellas im looking in autobahn catalogue here and its got Greddy FMIC kits for ~750-800 mark, if you guys have seen this one, you think its a good buy for quality? im tending to pick only good quality parts for my new car. i heard u can get FMIC kits for as low as a few hundred.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...