Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok guys, i need some help if you are good at working out compression ratios. These are the facts im working off -

- gtr head approx 62-64cc so i used 63 for my calculations,

- head gasket cometic 87mm and 0.051thou (i worked out 7.5cc),

- cp 86.5mm flat top pistons set up at 0 deck height for the right squish ( i got 499.506cc using 85 stroke and 86.5 bore).

With this i get close to 8.1? Is this right or am i missing something? Im after a compression ratio of 8.8. What will i have to do? shave the head?

You need to cc the head to determine the exaact size, as they do vary, and a small difference here makes a big difference in the comp. You could deck the block to increase the comp, but i wouldn't go smaller than 30thou squish on a street engine, the rest you will have to take out of the head, thats the problem of using flat top pistons, dome tops are heaps easier to get the higher comp.If you use a 1mm head gasket and 10 thou off the block, you will lose about 3cc, probably need to shave the head 15-20 thou also, but measure it all first, guy a burette and dummy assemble it first before you get the deck/head machined.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...