Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...

Or find some small kid on the street and pay him $2 to do it. Serious

Nah, in all seriousness, if you've got big hands you won't be able to do it without taking stuff out.

I can only just do it with a lot of trouble. You really have to squeeze your hand in there. You'll be turning the white plug with like no grip at all. Lots of swearing later, you'll get it out.

yeh is really sucks, you actually just have to squeeze your hand in there. Your skin will most likely get peirced and scraped but without taking it all apart its the only way. Or maybe just put the car on carsales if you can't get it out.

You fail to realise the R33 has been built by astute Japanese , who have delicate little Japanese hands & fingers!!!!! They have no trouble with this simple job. However for us ham fisted, yobbo, gorillas- its very hard to get your mitts into the puny little gap to release the bulb holder. I changed mine by having my girlfriend stand a couple of metres from the wrong end of a pair of binoculars, I looked thru the binoculars & picked her up with a pair of tweezers & dropped her into the gap & she had no trouble changing the bulb!!!!!! EASY!!!!!!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...