Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Out of curiosity, how can you tell the difference?

Aside from it being RWD - is there any way to tell if it's a RWD converted RS4?

Apart from the artical saying it is a WGC34, have a look at the strut towers in the engine bay

Rwd Stagea have totally different strut towers to a 4WD RS4

Rwd front suspension does not have the upper wish bone arm and use a different front strut/shock.

Apart from the artical saying it is a WGC34, have a look at the strut towers in the engine bay

Rwd Stagea have totally different strut towers to a 4WD RS4

Rwd front suspension does not have the upper wish bone arm and use a different front strut/shock.

Does that explain the shots of the modded strut towers? I was wondering what that had to do with the rest of it. I mean, the turbo that was capable of swallowing a small child was pretty self explanatory, but I couldn't figure out what the re-welded strut tops were trying to show.

The car is a WGC34 RWD not 4WD

hmm you're right it is a WGC34... lol can't believe I didn't see the big word in the middle of the page. Whoops.

but I couldn't figure out what the re-welded strut tops were trying to show.

Spot Welds for Chassis regidity im assuming

Something you see on most drift car out of Japan

On another note this thing is so damn hot!

Apart from the artical saying it is a WGC34, have a look at the strut towers in the engine bay

Rwd Stagea have totally different strut towers to a 4WD RS4

Rwd front suspension does not have the upper wish bone arm and use a different front strut/shock.

Thanks Darrin - is there any benefit to running this at all? Or is it simply just the way that you run different setups? 4WD - you want the upper wishbone arm, RWD, you dont?

Thanks Darrin - is there any benefit to running this at all? Or is it simply just the way that you run different setups? 4WD - you want the upper wishbone arm, RWD, you dont?

I can't answer what the benefits are, but the 2 are not interchangeable. The RWD Stagea comes from the factory with a totally different chasis/strut tower and supsension mounting points in the front to the 4WD version, so the suspension will not be interchangable

If your car is a 4wd version, have a look at your strut towers and compare them to these rwd version towers. You should be able to spot the differences in size.

Thank fck I've got broadband. Nice shots Shan, and no shortage of them either! Good work!

RWD strut towers gives you a bit more room in the engine bay for adding accessories, I've got no idea where I'd be able to mount a remote oil filter mount or catch can...

It looks like that car has had just a few changes to it... RB25 to a RB25 NEO...several Intercoolers etc... I can't read japanese but i assume it would be revealed in the article

It looks like that car has had just a few changes to it... RB25 to a RB25 NEO...several Intercoolers etc... I can't read japanese but i assume it would be revealed in the article

my bad?....stupid mistake...they just brought the plastic crap cover off... stoopid chris...stoopid chris :dry:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Prime parking, she is a little girl...LOL
    • I'm actually not sure - I think it was "Stealth Performance" (It really is near impossible to find a FEMALE 1/8BSPT to 1/8NPT male at ALL) but having the thing leveraged on a 90 degree angle on a small aluminium fitting is not too smart. Also in not too smart, I've drilled out the center of the broken fitting so there's maybe 0.00001mm of thread to bite into, so yeah. I may have to get it drilled/tapped/plugged entirely. Given I could conceivably tap a thread/adapter/pressure line in any point in the oil system I suppose it's feasible to run a line to the Nissan Sensor to keep the dash working. Do these exist in AN fittings and the like? Like an AN fitting that has a NPT (or other?) thread as well for putting a sensor in?
    • I would agree.  There will be an amount of boost you could run safely with an otherwise factory system, but it would be low enough to not be worth the cost.  And if you are reliving your 20s, you know a 'little bit' was never enough. Personally, if I didn't want to spend the money, then stick with NA bolt-ons, and maybe a tune.
    • Fuark, at least the motor survived. What brand was the fitting that snapped?
    • Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
×
×
  • Create New...