Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey i got a rb20det just got the ecu chiped and with my injectors apparently i have to run a ballast resistor all i know about the injectors is they came in a hks computer and injector pack they are 550cc and say denso on the side the injector impedance is about 2-3 ohms...and if i use them without the resistor it will fry the ecu?

6.8 ohm 15watt ballast resistor sound right?

also have a custom twinfeed fuel rail will the stock fuel pressure regulator be alrite?

rb20det

-fmic

-pod

-bov

-hks adjustable cam gears

-550cc injectors

- twin 10mm lines from tank (stock fuel line is used as a return)

-gtr fuel pump set up externally

-rb25det turbo high flowed with a vl .60 front cover (built to hold 22psi)

-3.5" dump 3" cat back

-q45 afm

-18psi

aim is 350rwhp but am expecting anywhere from 300rwhp up

its a r32 gts-4 should i run it on the dyno is 4wd or rwd?

also what does it have more hp in? ive had it on the dyno completely stock in rwd and get 175.4 rwhp

cheers vance

Edited by OGR88 R32

I think 10 ohm is more on the money. At least 10 Watt as well.

I don't do hp but have seen a 20 run 260rwkw as a stock short engine. It was backed off for a little longevity.

All the Nissans run with 5.5-6ohm resistor packs as do a lot of other cars that I know of. Honda, Mazda etc.

I picked up a R30 Skyline's resistor pack for next to nothing.

I did a few calcs a while back, from memory it turned out I required some where around 17w resistors.

Good 17w 6 ohm resistors are difficult to get at a reasonable price. A total of 6 worked out to nudge close to $100.

Grab an R30 or 280ZX resistor pack from the local wreckers, much cheaper and the resistors are designed for the purpose. :O

The male plug can be purchased from your local autostore for ~$2.95, the less soldering required the better.

I wouldn't be reving or driving the car if your not running a resistor pack, it WILL cause the injector drivers to fry and worse case catch fire. It 'may' be ok on idle and at low rev's but mid to high rpm and your most definitely asking for trouble.

Be safe, just dont drive it until its sorted.

IF you decide to go separate resistors here's what 'should' be used.

http://www.rx7store.net/product_p/injector%20resistor.htm

Remember thats in USD.

Attached below is a pic of my R30 resistor pack. Looks the same as the GTR item just with a different plug.

post-382-1166023087.jpg

yeah they are out of a toyota and ive got the plugs sorted i really need to get it goin by the weekend so il see if i can get my hands on the r30 resistor pack seems like the way to go thanks heaps for all the help everyone especially cubes

cheers vance

As a rule of thumb if you're using a JECS or Denso injector and have to change the plug then the unit is of a different impedance. The best way to check is to use a multimeter and test the resistance.

hey cubes, have you got a pic of what the resistors look like without the cover on top of it?

i brought a resistor packing thinking it had covered and when it turned up i was missing them, so i want to confirm whats happening

GTS25t injectors are 11.5 ohm

Geoff, am I right to guess that RB20DET (R32) injectors are the same resistance as the R33 RB25 ones? and the only difference being the wey they feed into the engine? Ive never sat them side by side...

cheers

-Jez

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...