Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, i have a stock as a rock Black S1 R33. Only mods are 3" turbo back system and a turbo timer.....:wave:

I have $10k to spend on the motor(90K on the clock), What would you do. I'm just after peoples opinions.

Gonna do some reserch over the next 2-3 weeks, then see where i'm at.

All opinions are welcome. :wave:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147141-10000-what-would-u-do/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 70
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

id sell it, and buy an r32.

then id start modding.

Buy a GTR

I'd take both pieces of advice and add both together - buy a R32 GTR. :wave:

Otherwise figure out what you want from the car first then start buying appropiate parts. Otherwise I'd so something like this

$1500 - PFC + Tune

$2000 - Tein Super Street Coilovers

$1000 - Whiteline goodies: swaybar, camber kit, castor kit etc.

$1000 - Brakes: rotors, pads, fluid, cylinder stopper etc.

$1000 - Injectors

$300-400 - Z32 AFM

Rest of the money use to choose the appropiate turbo setup. This doesn't include labour cost for all of the above so make sure you keep that into account as well.

It all depends on what you want out of ur engine doesnt it.

FMIC

Pod (CAI + Heatshield as well)

EBC

PFC or aftermarker managment perhaps

Upgraded Clutch for power increase

Fuel Pump

Injectors

Turbo (perhaps 2540 or 3037)

Headgasket

Forged Pistons if u wanted.

** tune for the above parts ** $$

What about suspension and brakes though.

Perhaps new rotors / pads

Coilovers or replace worn out componets at least.

Prob more you can do.. but not to much money left after that i would imagine.

Edited by Acer

Ok, things that are at the top of the list.

Hi flow..

FMIC

PFC

was also thinking about an engine kit from topracing

Stage 3.

CP pistons and rings

Eagle H beam connecting rods

Nissan gasket kit

Tomei metal head gasket

Nissan water/oil pump

Gates racing timing belt

ARP main and head studs

ACL Race main bearings

ACLrace connecting rod bearings. All for $5k

Edited by K_E_V_I_N

No need.. The engines are tough.

Slap a thicker headgasket on to it, while its off drop a set of 260dur cams and springs in to it, may as well as you do have 10k to 'blow' :O

Springs are iffy.. .Some are fine with 20+psi others begin floating at 20psi.. So its a small outlay while the heads off.. Hell while its off you may as well give the head a tidy up, light port/polish valve deshroud. :)

While thats being done you'll be waiting for your:

Injectors, PFC, exhaust, fmic, pod and box to land at your door step.

Drop a gt30r .82 internal gate on to it and dial in 20 odd psi.

Possibly have the stock exh. manifold extrude honed while your there. Sly33 has just done this and picked up quite a bit of flow through the manifold, it shall be interesting to see how the increased flow is reflected in the 'real world'.

Note I've concentrated on getting air in and out of the motor, a motor is an airpump, make it more efficient at pumping air and it will make more power easier and more reliably.

With a good tune it will hold together (well they do here in Adelaide) with a bad tune it will break a piston or 6.

Ok, things that are at the top of the list.

Hi flow..

FMIC

PFC

was also thinking about an engine kit from topracing

Stage 3.

CP pistons and rings

Eagle H beam connecting rods

Nissan gasket kit

Tomei metal head gasket

Nissan water/oil pump

Gates racing timing belt

ARP main and head studs

ACL Race main bearings

ACLrace connecting rod bearings. All for $5k

Remember the 5k for the parts does not include labour... The machining and labour costs will absorb at least 2.5k to do it properly.

sorry I should change it to 16 :O but 20 is a lot on std pistons you would need to run 11:1 A/F ratios. Also you would leave the rev limit at 7,000 with std rods

Edited by RB SANDY

By running a richer mixture your essentially shifting the peak combustion pressure to a later crank degree. Resulting in less chance of detonation and lower combustion temperatures.

The same safety can be achieved with greater efficiency by running less ignition timing.

Richer mixtures at higher power levels are generally used to ensure each cylinder runs a safe afr due to poor plenum distribution and unequal cylinder reversion caused by poor unequal exh. manifolds.

Thats my view anyway. :O

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The team at OBD2 Australia are pretty good, shoot them an email and ask them. I've dealt with them before for work stuff. I'd be shocked if it didn't work, so long as Consult can activate the ABS. But you might need to use KLine for it which would be the stopper, as I don't think that piece does KLine comms.
    • Yeah and hence my ghetto way of slamming the brakes, get the ABS to cycle, rebleed seems to be a sensible workaround.
    • Hey! Happy to help. Nothing inherently wrong with the adapter, it's more so with Brett Collins himself. He gave me a lot of incorrect information when I was in contact with him and was extremely rude when I challenged him. He stated I could not use any aftermarket twin plate clutches except for his own, not to use the dush shield, bla bla bla and it was all BS.  Collins stated to cut roughly 14mm's off the housing, I took off 15mm to make room for the dust shield. I would confirm with whatever adapter manufacturer you're using. 
    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
×
×
  • Create New...