Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have decided to sell my car to buy myself something a bit more practical (I'm getting old *sigh*).

I have babied this car since day one, and can attest that the previous owner has done the same. The car has been stripped out (ie: no carpet, rear seats, rear trim) for weight reduction purposes. This is not your 'go to the shops for milk' kind of car, it has been purpose built for serious driving!

The car makes around 350rwhp @ 1bar (pulls hard!), the motor is super responsive and has never skipped a beat. I have only ever used top shelf fluids for it (eg Motul 300v) and have serviced it every 3000-4000km's. The car is mechanically A1.

The car handles absolutely awesome and stops on a dime. The paint is the ORIGINAL factory black which reflects the level of care this car has received throughout its life. The chassis has 103,000km's on it. Interior as pictured below is immaculate for its age (No dash bubbles!). The car has a couple minor scratches here and there, I will enthusiastically point out EVERY single thing wrong with this car to the potential buyer (and there is not much wrong with it!).

Myself and the previous owner have only used high quality brand name components, you will not find any China on my car.

The car is currently unregistered, although it has been fully complied (this car came in under the 15yr rule btw) and fitted with new Brigestone Potenza G3 tyres. To pass the pits it would require a bonnet swap to stock, bonnet pins removed, stock exhaust fitted and a cat fitted (both of which I have already).

Whether it be drift, drag or track work this is a car that can do well in all fields.

I am asking $18,500 UNREGISTERED or $19,500 REGISTERED (I will be running the car over the pits on the 29th).

Tire kickers and test pilots need not apply! If your after a ****ter, look elsewhere :O

I am happy to answer any queries you may have. Those who are genuinely interested may contact me via mobile or email: 0406-956-073 or [email protected]

Engine Hardware

1990 RB26DETT engine (Engine conversion performed in Japan)

R32 GTR FMIC

Brand new APEXi Super power Intake air filters

GREDDY SS Intercooler piping kit

NISMO Fuel pump

R32 GT-R Radiator

3” Turbo back stainless exhaust

3” Stainless de-cat pipe

Aftermarket front pipe

Mines Tuned ROM

Driveline

R32 GTR 5spd Gearbox (new transfer case installed).

Short shifter kit

OS Giken twin plate clutch with lightened flywheel

Two-Way mechanical LSD

HICAS lock bar

Brakes and Suspension

EBC Brake pads

R32 GT-R rotors

R32 GT-R calipers

TEIN HR suspension

Aftermarket rear cradle bushes + upper bushes

CUSCO type OS front and rear strut braces

R32 GT-R rear sway bar

Interior and miscellaneous modifications

KUROMORI lightweight 6-point BOLT IN roll cage (I run only the rear half cage to stay compliant)

BRIDE ZETA 3 sport drivers seat

GREDDY PROFEC B electronic boost controller

GREDDY 60mm electronic boost gauge

GREDDY 60mm electronic fuel pressure gauge

GREDDY turbo timer

ATC 320mm steering wheel + boss kit

Drift handbrake knob

Alpine MDA-W900J head unit

PIAA windscreen wipers

3 Point immobilizer Alarm installed

Rolling Stock

Blitz Type 01 CX 17” wheels

Bolt on wheel spacers

Near new Bridgestone Potenza G3 ZR tires F: 215/45 R: 225/45

Bodywork

FRP fiberglass reverse vented bonnet (has developed a little bit of a warp due to the heat (quoted $350 from Fibrevision to fix this).

Bonnet pins

Rear guards professionally rolled

Brand new ORIGIN Stylish Line side steps

Final KONNEXION rear bumper

R32 GTR N1 bumper

R32 GTR N1 headlights with HID

4edithm6.jpg

5dh6.jpg

dsc0002ae9.jpg

p4280048em4.jpg

dsc0026eg5.jpg

interiorwc1.jpg

interior2oh9.jpg

interiorstrippedqu5.jpg

outside2croppedbg7.jpg

Edited by Remix-
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147169-rb26dett-powered-r32-gts-4-skyline/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
    • Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
    • Thank you all for the replys 🙂 I know that intake would be different but that is one pipe at it is not that hard to get(custom one). I meant mainly bolt to the stock manifold and the turbo elbow. I looked and many sites/forums but they are just "old" with some old HKS turbos from GT-R i guess? What about some Garrets?  Or any other turbo? Is there even a turbo which i can just bolt on? 😄 And yeah i know about that new HKS but that is like 2000k USD without taxes/shipping in here   Iam getting a touch up tune but my "problem" is that on the "not" hot day iam getting peaks around 0,9 bar...and when it was around 15 Celsious i saw peak around 1 bar which is just too much for stock turbo. And of course turbo is old and i like to get some new one for a piece of mind 🙂 
    • I'm working on the assumption that our friend Jasmine here is a Russian (or, possibly Ukrainian) spammer/spambot, based purely on the number of such that I have been having to neuter in the last few weeks. IP address for the OP above was in WA. But that could have been via VPN. Posting at quarter to 4 in the morning is a good sign of being from somewhere in Europe. The last Jasmine that I kicked in the cooch was IP addressed in Ukraine. Even that could have been via VPN, and the bitchbot could have been from Russia, Serbia, China or anywhere. Regardless, was a spambot, so I killed it with fire. The fact that our new friend Jasmine here did not respond in any way to my tart query strongly suggests to me that this OP was just the establishment phase of a user able to be activated for spamming in a week, or 3 or 10.
×
×
  • Create New...