Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

Yep, I want to go to 5x114.3 on my r31 (aussie). I understand I'll need import front struts for the brake calipers, but I'm at aloss on brakes themselves? Can I run r32 type m calipers and front disks? What hubs? will the r32 ones fit? and then what about wheel offset-apart from clearance for calipers, will it change the offset, with the bigger discs, different hub assy etc? could I redrill R31 hubs? I would just be redrilling the rear flanges, dunno bout disks and calipers there though. Oh and what offset are R33 gts-t stock 16" rims, stock GT-R R32 rims, and gts-t r32 rims (but only being 6.5" I dunno if I want them)?

Mainly the fronts I'm worried about, anyone able to help?

cheers,

floody

  • 2 weeks later...

Lambo,

I've just done the conversion to my R32 GTS25, you can buy the hubs complete, from SSS or Just Jap in Sydney... they are a straight forward swap over, the only problem is they cut the brake lines so I had to buy replacement lines for the rear, at $150... but you could get a locally made set of lines for about $60 if you didn't mind them not being perfect.

I swapped the diff over at the same time (to go to LSD) and the parts cost $2000 from SSS

That included:

4 x GTSt "Type M" Hubs

GTSt Viscous LSD

Half Shafts for new diff

If you didn't want the diff, it would cost btw $1000 - $1500

You're looking at about 6 hours labour to get it swapped over

I have just changed the rear diff internals and hubs driveshafts to gtr stuff on my gtst. So i have a 32 gtst diff viscus was not suited to 235rwkw but would be good for a gts and the driveshafts and hubs to suit. This will all bolt on to your gts and give you a 5 stud rear. Just need the rear disks and brake.

I want $350 for diff.driveshats and hubs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...