Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I took the heat shield off to get the photo. I would just like to know for sure what it is. Even if i know whether it's stock or whether it's not is good enough for me. Nick from APC said it was aftermarket but didn't know what it was...but he was looking with the heat shield on. So who knows...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14734-turbo-id/#findComment-299978
Share on other sites

Hi MM2, the high flowed R33 RB25DET turbo on our R32 GTST RB20DET says "16V 5 Nissan Motor" on the compressor cover.

I have seen a number of R32 GTST's with R33 GTST turbos fitted, so this may help if yours is another one.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14734-turbo-id/#findComment-302258
Share on other sites

OK, i managed to read what i think it says on the compressor cover with one of those little mirrors on a rod (don't know the name of it). Reading clockwise around the cover it says:

M27 (with a circle around it) 2 1-1 A/R 80 (i think) GARRET.

Any ideas what turbo it could be?

Regards,

Scott

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14734-turbo-id/#findComment-302582
Share on other sites

My 2510 has M27 and .60 cast onm the front, it also has a machined front with 4 allen key nuts on the front. I don't think yours is stock, as it doesn't have the factory 90 cast section from the compressor cover on it.

More pics would help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14734-turbo-id/#findComment-303329
Share on other sites

only akin 150rwkw it aint gunah be anything huge

firstly put on a heat shield though, thats gunah be boiling the engine bay as it is

the actuator is in the std position

i have a 0.60 comp housing and it rubs against the chassis rails so judging by that pic it aint that big...

id dare say from size and power output its either a small GT series turbo or a high-flow.

easiest way to find out is pull the intercooler piping off and take some better pics for us

also if the car hasnt got a front mount (or theres no evidence of it ever having one ie cut up front supports or front bar) then i doubt its anything huge

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14734-turbo-id/#findComment-303661
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...