Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

as the topic states I have a HKS GT2530-63T (446179-21) which has had the rear bearing let go.

it is rebuildable for someone who can be bothered/has the money.

*dont know what its worth so shoot us an offer to pm and we can go from there.

post-20890-1173409830.jpg

EDIT: had a few offers at 200, which sounds fairly reasonable, but no one commiting. so put the money down and you'll snap it up.

post-20890-1173409852.jpg

I also have the compressor cover to suit.

it is the slip on inlet/outlet stlye as opposed to the flanged option.

*dont know a price on this either so again just shoot me an offer.

a BRAND NEW t28 turbine housing to suit is also available (sold pending payment)

post-20890-1173409841.jpg

I also have an adjustable wastegate actuator and braket for sale from a brand new garrett turbo

will suit garrett/hks internally gated turbos.

absolutely brand new garrett item, never used. sold

cheers lads.

Edited by rb20inside
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147411-hks-gt2530-core/
Share on other sites

hey guys,

as the topic states I have a HKS GT2530-63T (446179-21) which has had the rear bearing let go.

it is easily rebuildable for someone who can be bothered/has the money.

dont know what its worth so shoot us an offer to pm and we can go from there.

I also have the compressor cover to suit.

it is the slip on inlet/outlet stlye as opposed to the flanged option.

also just shoot me an offer.

cheers lads.

just thought i'd remind u before the mods get on ur case...as per forum rules u do need to set a price.

pics would help too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147411-hks-gt2530-core/#findComment-2752645
Share on other sites

i dont have a clue what it is worth.

is there any precedent? have any similar items been sold?

i could say $1000 but that's stupidly high so what's the point.

throw me an offer and the worse i can say is no.

i'll try borrow a camera and take some photos but i'm sure everyone has seen a turbo before.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147411-hks-gt2530-core/#findComment-2752786
Share on other sites

i would like to see some pics thanks and maybe a price range...?

i sold a pair (one blown one and one good one for $1000) so your blown one would be worth about $200.

this sounds reasonable...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147411-hks-gt2530-core/#findComment-2753692
Share on other sites

We really really need to see pics of this . As has been mentioned before the only unique parts of a HKS GT2530 (minus the turbine housing) are its compressor wheel - and I suppose the compressor housing but only because it was profiled by Garrett and has accurate clearance on the comp wheel vanes .

Like any other turbo centre section the GT BB type have "consumable" parts of which the bearing housing is one . This is because the turbine end has a piston ring style seal running in a groove machined into the bearing housing itself . When the rear end bearing gets tired the shaft wants to orbit instead or running concentric the piston ring wants to bottom out/revolve and chew out the bearing housing grove . You should really look at the turbine blade tips to see if it has rubbed , they are well made to withstand heat and centrifugal forces but have minimum material out at the tips to reduce innertia so dont take kindly to kissing its housing at 130000 + rpm .

I'd reckon a "rebuild" would consist of obtaining another GT2860R cartridge and fitting / balancing the assembly , bolt the compressor housing on and it becomes a "2530" .

So the value is really in the compressor wheel/housing combination (provided they did not touch) because there is a good chance the rest is used up .

Cheers A .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147411-hks-gt2530-core/#findComment-2754322
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I'm no turbo guru so i don't know what is involved in rebuilding. I havn't had any quotes done

There is a slight change in gradient on the very tip of the turbine wheel blades and seeing as it was the rear bearing that let go I'd say maybe the rear wheel has touched?

actuator is a brand new garrett adjustable one. will definitely suit garret or hks turbos. dont know about vg30... and havn't got one to check it with

Edited by rb20inside
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147411-hks-gt2530-core/#findComment-2776087
Share on other sites

We really really need to see pics of this . As has been mentioned before the only unique parts of a HKS GT2530 (minus the turbine housing) are its compressor wheel - and I suppose the compressor housing but only because it was profiled by Garrett and has accurate clearance on the comp wheel vanes .

Like any other turbo centre section the GT BB type have "consumable" parts of which the bearing housing is one . This is because the turbine end has a piston ring style seal running in a groove machined into the bearing housing itself . When the rear end bearing gets tired the shaft wants to orbit instead or running concentric the piston ring wants to bottom out/revolve and chew out the bearing housing grove . You should really look at the turbine blade tips to see if it has rubbed , they are well made to withstand heat and centrifugal forces but have minimum material out at the tips to reduce innertia so dont take kindly to kissing its housing at 130000 + rpm .

I'd reckon a "rebuild" would consist of obtaining another GT2860R cartridge and fitting / balancing the assembly , bolt the compressor housing on and it becomes a "2530" .

So the value is really in the compressor wheel/housing combination (provided they did not touch) because there is a good chance the rest is used up .

Cheers A .

Can someone put all this in plain simple english??

Only things that I'd like to know ...in simple yes/no fashion

1. is this going to be an expensive rebuild (i.e: costing more than a grand)?

2. Is there any performance gain over the stock gts-t turbo?

3. is it a direct bolt on for an rb25det?

:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147411-hks-gt2530-core/#findComment-2776502
Share on other sites

here I go on the 20 questions to the best of my knowledge:

* actuator came with brand new garrett turbo and I have no use for it

* turbo was on an rb20det. it was insane fun to drive, as many others who have experienced will verify. read the sticky thread.

* it will bolt up to the rb20/25 but as stated it will require the oil and water lines to make it work. i have the oil feed and return lines but they are being used on my car and not included in this. I had water lines made up at pirtek to suit the application.

* i'll try to borrow a camera and take some pictures and attempt to load them up but i'm not a real computer guru so i'll enlist the assistance of my more technologically minded mates (aka. computer geeks)

off the topic but, if anyone knows of any/could keep an eye out for any s14/15 front hubs as stated in my sig.

cheers, CR

Edited by rb20inside
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147411-hks-gt2530-core/#findComment-2782814
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
We really really need to see pics of this . As has been mentioned before the only unique parts of a HKS GT2530 (minus the turbine housing) are its compressor wheel - and I suppose the compressor housing but only because it was profiled by Garrett and has accurate clearance on the comp wheel vanes .

Like any other turbo centre section the GT BB type have "consumable" parts of which the bearing housing is one . This is because the turbine end has a piston ring style seal running in a groove machined into the bearing housing itself . When the rear end bearing gets tired the shaft wants to orbit instead or running concentric the piston ring wants to bottom out/revolve and chew out the bearing housing grove . You should really look at the turbine blade tips to see if it has rubbed , they are well made to withstand heat and centrifugal forces but have minimum material out at the tips to reduce innertia so dont take kindly to kissing its housing at 130000 + rpm .

I'd reckon a "rebuild" would consist of obtaining another GT2860R cartridge and fitting / balancing the assembly , bolt the compressor housing on and it becomes a "2530" .

So the value is really in the compressor wheel/housing combination (provided they did not touch) because there is a good chance the rest is used up .

Cheers A .

I've just been through all this,,,,,,If the turbine has touched the housing you can kiss the reco goodbye. yeah and bearing tracks, check them. P.S if anybody knows someone that has a Gt2530 cartrage new, i'm interested.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147411-hks-gt2530-core/#findComment-2819867
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...