Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im going with my oldman to see family in Adelaide so its Adelaide and no where else :D

umm family

Barossa Valley; 80km NE of Adel, where u can find the best wine in Australia..if not, the world's best, i dont drink wine, but u get the drift

Victor Harbour; scenic drive, 80km SE of Adel; penguins on Granite island, traditional 1-horse powered carridges and sinista's favourite, the camel rides

Glenelg; Gold Coast in adel, beach, babes (and some fat chicks), wine & dine, car cruises...

Adelaide Hills; Rocking Horse, size of a boeing 727, theres Birdwood which has the Motor Museum, Tungkilo etc which leads to...

Mannum @ the MIGHTY Murray river, traditional paddle-powered house boat...quite relaxing

FOOD galore; city; Rundle Street has variety( fav spot for car cruises), O'connel St has THE Italian cuisines and @ Gouger St, you'll find the Eastern specialties like Thai, Chinese, Viets, Korean BBQ etc ;)

Lobethal; Xmas lights

thats about it...

But wait...theres more...but i cbf..Zzz time

*edit*

or u can PM one of us and hitch hide on a cruise

Edited by andz69

andz69 has covered most of the usual bits.

there is also Mclaren Vale (for nice wines) its down south and on the way to Victor Harbour.

There is also the Tropicana Latin Dance festival

Tour down under - open road bike race from the 16th to the 21st

Tunarama festival 26th to 28th January at Port Lincon (about a 6 hr drive)

You can also visit Port Adelaide (a little like Freeo, but not as big yet)

Kangaroo Island - Quiet place, beaches, wildlife etc.

Shopping and Markets - Brickworks markets, Junction markets, Central markets, Harbour town etc etc

Or catch a ride with someone here through George Rd or down South. Top cruize roads.

Sunday drinking sessions are generally down at the bay(Glenelg)! You could go to the Pier, The Grand(which is exactly the same layout as The Cotteslow Pub(spelling) over there!) Just stick to the city like Rundle St of a night time and head down the Bay during the day! Manya lady in these spots!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...