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The general power output figure for an rb20det is 215hp, but I'm assuming that is the silvertop ECCS.

I am looking at putting a redtop NICS engine into an r30 with a dr30 brake upgrade, I need to know whether it exceeds the FJ20det output or not for engineering info.

The FJ20det is 190hp and the RB20det is 215, the redtop rb20det has to be inbetween there somewhere within reason, I need to know what it is.

Thanks,

Rick.

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I believe the Nics is around 135kw compared to a silvertop 160kw.

So the Nics has a little bit less power than a FJ20.

Ahahaha, that's both good and bad to hear... :)

Well it's a good thing considering this will be the very first turbo car I've ever driven let alone had. Because, I probably shouldn't have too much power.

At the same time that makes it kinda annoying...

What sort of kw rating does the FJ put out?

And what is the NICS horsepower rating?

Cheers!

Rick.

It's gonna set me back bugger all and I don't have enough money to do otherwise so I'm content with the idea. Put it this way, regular mr30 = 85rwhp, I think. NICS = 150rwhp in an r30 with an exhaust (I'm pretty sure on that) That jump in power alone is a fair bit and should be enough for me to get the car to do whatever I need to do with it.

Also the turbo 2-door R31's have the NICS engine and weigh 1350kg I believe whereas MR30's weigh 1150kg's, so that should allow for some more power access.

Edited by Blue Dynamite

Yes, but the NICS are plagued with electrical problems... most of the red-top RB20's are.

They werent the latest and greatest and a brand new motor design which was much improved/ironed out with the silver top, which are far more reliable.

You might be lucky, you might not have a problem... but it potentially might be a cheap motor that ends up costing you much more than you expected

Yes, but the NICS are plagued with electrical problems... most of the red-top RB20's are.

They werent the latest and greatest and a brand new motor design which was much improved/ironed out with the silver top, which are far more reliable.

You might be lucky, you might not have a problem... but it potentially might be a cheap motor that ends up costing you much more than you expected

Good point, but at least for the time being, this is all I can afford. I've seen it running and everything 'appears' to be in well running order, so hopefully I am lucky.

Cheers.

Rick.

I'd think very hard before using that engine . People here are trying to stop you painting yourself into a corner with the early R31 spec RB20DET . It would make more sense to save a bit longer and buy an engine that not only works better everywhere , is easier to get parts for and comes standard with better manifolding/turbocharger and engine control electrics . Just to get the non std engine and gearbox into an R30 is going to take a bit of effort and money so why go with a known problem child .

Cheers A .

I'd think very hard before using that engine . People here are trying to stop you painting yourself into a corner with the early R31 spec RB20DET . It would make more sense to save a bit longer and buy an engine that not only works better everywhere , is easier to get parts for and comes standard with better manifolding/turbocharger and engine control electrics . Just to get the non std engine and gearbox into an R30 is going to take a bit of effort and money so why go with a known problem child .

Cheers A .

A) because I'm getting it for $500 with help in instalation

B) because the engine is being taken out of a 240z and all if any adaption process's should already be done (I'm told the only real adaption is with the gearbox). As for gearbox mounts I'm using a standard MR30 gearbox, however it's in good condition and Bazz from Datsport said it wont have a problem so long as I use decent gearoil in it.

C) I only really need it to last me a year anyway.

D) The body of my project car is delapidated and thus putting a $2000 engine/gearbox into it wouldn't make much sense to me.

D2) Maybe when I get it complied with the weak NICS engine, I give it a decent paint job (going with a can fixup for now), have learned how to drive with a dodgey turbo engine; then upgrading to a silvertop would be a better idea.

Call me ignorant and arrogant and I guess I am taking a chance on this engine holding up for a year, but I think I blew my dailys engine the other day and god knows I couldn't be bothered rebuilding another one for its tainted wishbones, dead front shocks, dead clutch and broken windows at 300-500+ effort for the power of an L24.

I think I'd just find a usable injected L28 and plonk it in . Spending on dying cars is not real good in my book . You're probably better off trying to find another acceptable MR30 and buying one cheaply .

Cheers .

And so says the latest deserter from the classic brigade :)

Some of us still believe in old vs newer, to be better.

Merry Xmas & happy new year A, guess we will catch up again in the new year.

Cheers, D

Red top NICCS were rated @ 142Kw @ 6200 but all the tests done on them in Oz say they're stuffed over 5000 rpm so I guess you would be looking at a realistic figure of about 120/130.

Cheers, D

Yep thats due to the standard turbo, runs out of puff just after 5000rpm on stock boost (8-9psi) and drops to around 5psi at 7000rpm, thats why you see most of them run a RB25 T3 these days.

The Zed guys in the states had the same problem with the T03 on the L28ET. As it neared closer to the red line the further the boost bled off, so nearly all quick Zeds use an EBC to overcome the problem.

Cheers, D

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