Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This goes against convential thinking...but...

an incorrectly matched cam and turbo package can make or break a build.

this was a laggy set-up till slightly bigger camshafts were installed

around 300 more KW at 150kph...wow

post-23582-1166692783.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148285-size-does-matter/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

what tha?

you said 300 more rwkws over what it had before the cams? Am i understanding this correctly?

If so...goddamn!

well yeah previously at 150km/h (5357rpm) it was making 150rwkw

now its making at 150km/h (5357rpm) its making 450rwkw

what tha?

you said 300 more rwkws over what it had before the cams? Am i understanding this correctly?

If so...goddamn!

Thats AWKW this a 4 wheel dyno...but yes r33 racer you are understanding correctly. (you can pick your jaw up off the floor now...lol)

Paul its a single retarder DD dyno...it ramps and reads more accurate in shoot8 with big hp cars. we have proven its accuracy to within 1kw at Autosalon (dynolog) on consectutive days.

that could also be PARTLY due to the RPM at which the run was begun. if you have the car idling in 4th on the dyno and put your foot down to log the run, it will reach full boost sooner than if you start at 3000rpm and put your foot down.

just a thought - the first run starts at 90km/h and the 2nd starts at 60km/h or so.

the cams certainly did make a large difference though, i'm not detracting from the gains which you have found. the difference is quite marked. it is one of those "all or nothing" power curves in which camshaft selection is critical as well.

top stuff.

hmmm, interested in these mystery cams is me ehehe.

Dave all i can say is one step larger in lift and one step larger in duration (inlet cam was two steps in duration) as they were different but now equal. Cams are off the shelf items of Japanese origin.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Are you suggesting that the kit did a cheap and nasty job of just jamming the wheel in between other things and caused the misalignment? I mean, we normally do this with an integrated crank trigger wheel, not something bodged on. It's not 1995 any more.
    • I mean, given the number of BMWs you own their tolerance for improper torque is rather low. The number of torque + angle spec bolts and non-reusable bolts in one is nuts.
    • Atmospheric vent requires something that doesn't use a MAF for load. You would need a standalone ECU for that.
    • Hey all,   I’ve got an RB25 with a trigger kit that includes a crank wheel, and I’ve hit a wall trying to sort a timing belt tracking issue. The belt either rides right on the edge of the cam/crank pulleys or walks slightly forward once the engine starts. It tracks okay-ish for a moment, then creeps right to the edge—and honestly, it’s stressing me out.   I’ve spent hours removing and reinstalling the belt, double-checking everything:   Tensioner setup is good, checked multiple times Idler pulley and washers are all in the correct places Followed the RB25 timing procedure step-by-step     The only thing I changed was the rear crank washer—I swapped the OEM one for a Neato version, and it made things worse. The belt now sits even more forward than before. I’m beginning to think the crank trigger wheel itself (from the trigger kit) is the issue—poor design or slightly off dimensions.   What’s strange is that with the previous belt setup, it actually ran fine for a couple of years—around 4,000 to 5,000 miles, even with hard driving and high RPMs. But even then, the belt was always riding right on the edge, and I know that’s not ideal or safe long term.   At this point, I’m debating whether to:   Machine a few mm off the crank trigger wheel to bring it back in line, or Replace it entirely with a better-designed unit     Only thing is, I already have the Cherry Hall sensors, bracket, etc.—I just want to replace the wheel only, not the entire kit. Anyone know a brand or supplier that sells just the crank trigger wheel on its own?   Would really appreciate any feedback—especially from anyone who’s run into this exact issue and found a reliable fix.   Thanks in advance.
    • Hi...a little refresh. Is Nistune gonna be enough to run BoV? Or do i need some proper ECU? 
×
×
  • Create New...