Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

went on a mini cruise last night with 3 other GTRs, 2 WRXs, and a RX7 S6 to Lobethal and back. Had issues with losing cars in traffic though. Engine was hot and brakes not as reponsive on way home but it sure was fun!

not sure about that one.

i always put BP in my car, execept i ran out last night & the BP was closed so i had to fill up with shell, starting off for the first 5 minutes i took it easy then i went up to about 4500RPM in third and got a knock reading of 75 on the PFC!!! im gonna wait till this tank runs out & im never going to put shell fuel in there again

Sam, Shell don't sell 98 octane fuel in SA, so if your car was tuned using BP Ultimate 98, putting Shell Premium (95 RON) is definitely NOT a good idea with an ECU with no knock control.

To be honest mate, I'd drain it and refill - it might be $60 worth of juice, but how much was that rebuild again? A LOT more.

Oooo, i havent been on a good run for ages! nice weather at night now for it, can actually get out the car and chat without getting drenched.

Also, I'm going for the Microtech to solve my problems, so car should be back at christmas time :(

hope all goes well for ya steve :D

Sam, Shell don't sell 98 octane fuel in SA, so if your car was tuned using BP Ultimate 98, putting Shell Premium (95 RON) is definitely NOT a good idea with an ECU with no knock control.

To be honest mate, I'd drain it and refill - it might be $60 worth of juice, but how much was that rebuild again?  A LOT more.

thanks for that info will, i didnt know the shell was only 95RON.

i didnt put much of the shell fuel in there, just enough to get me by. so today i filled it up the rest of the way with BP and its running all good now.

from what ive read the knock reading of 75 isnt too serious, but ive learnt a lesson there.

with that first 4000RPM right before the boost really kicks in, the computer over-richens the air-fuel ratio, not sure why, but thats why it goes all flat. i noticed my car used to back-fire a lot around those RPM, but now it rarely ever backfires

i was originally going to, but i ended up getting it fitted & tuned all in one. i also needed a bosch fuel pump, cos the stock one was running out of puff. i got boostworx do do mine, they did a top job. but i also heard good things about graham west too.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...