Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Hey i remember this thread :)

how are ya Darren? hows the 33 going?

Hey Sam the 33 aint going nowhere....have decided to take it off the road after it started funking out on me. AFM, Fuel Pump, Clutch Rebuild, Cradle Bushes, Full Lube flush + service and a full FC retune is in store, so unsure when she'll be back!!!

hey Darren, whats involved in fitting new rear cradle bushes to an R33??? I hear its a pretty big job?

With the Zenith ones you have to drop the whole cradle, to purchase the Zenith ones they are $120 plus my bro in law can fit them for you for $55 P/Hr 1 1/2-2 hrs, or can supply some basic instructions.

Thats the way Sam, yeh we generally get the the Ed about 11am and have to line up, is usually a solid 12hr affair but being on the Sat people won't have to work, so i think we will be gettin there a bit earlier........you sould try and drag Duc there(not like he won't read this!!!!)

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...