Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Did they say why they couldn't remove the rear left wheel?

Lock nut? Spinning stud?

Either way you should be able to spin the wheel around and see with a torch how much meat is left on the pad. Looking at the opposite wheel will give you a good indication how much meat is left on the left.

The skylines brakes wear fairly evenly due to being 4pots up the fronts and 2 pots at the rear. So the inner doesn't wear early like that of the usual clamp type pos brakes.

I wouldn't be concerned.

Have you bought it yet?

Get under the car and check the chassis rails for damage.

  • Replies 6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

yup :wave:

hey guys i need a little advice, im purchasing the car on friday but there is a small problem and that is the RAA couldnt get the rear left wheel off the car to check the brakes on that rotor.

Got any advice, should this sort of thing hold me up greatly?

why dont you take it to a workshop that specialises in skylines? RAA is pointless when it comes to these checks, they only good for when your car breaks down and needs a tow.

yup :wave:

hey guys i need a little advice, im purchasing the car on friday but there is a small problem and that is the RAA couldnt get the rear left wheel off the car to check the brakes on that rotor.

Got any advice, should this sort of thing hold me up greatly?

wtf? Id be wondering why they would not be able to take a wheel off...cbf, or something wrong?

I'm not too fond of the RAA inspections.

I bought a VS 5ltr 5speed some 7years ago, had it RAA inspected and they missed an obvious inlet manifold water leak and loose engine mount that had the exhaust hitting the body under acceleration. :wave:

The inlet manifold leak was a real pain in the arse to get fixed too.. They had the car for 3 weeks and racked up almost 70km's, I got it back and the clutch felt all spongy like they had been slipping it. :)

From there that car was down hill... Such a damn unreliable (drivetrain) money pit. Well at least the new owner got a good deal; new diff, gearbox and rear subframe. :O

The RAA said that "several of the wheel nuts were damaged, so unable to complete brake check."

The guy did a very thorough report and they do check everything on their check list. I mean id want a full refund of the 200 dollars i spent to get myself some peace of mind before buyin the car.

I'm not worried about the brake pad, Im worried about the wheel coming off, I think im going to tell him that I'm not coming to pick up the car until he can get that wheel off and then refit it with new nuts. without breaking his nuts is the key, but i guess im the one with the cash anyway.

Edited by SAZilla
The RAA said that "several of the wheel nuts were damaged, so unable to complete brake check."

The guy did a very thorough report and they do check everything on their check list. I mean id want a full refund of the 200 dollars i spent to get myself some peace of mind before buyin the car.

I'm not worried about the brake pad, Im worried about the wheel coming off, I think im going to tell him that I'm not coming to pick up the car until he can get that wheel off and then refit it with new nuts. without breaking his nuts is the key, but i guess im the one with the cash anyway.

so he has to brake a nut to get the broken nuts off :dry: how do nuts get broken...id ask for explanation.

he is thorough, but did they do a compression check?

yes, came up with 5 percent within eachother,

is that good?

@cubes, private sale bud

my mate said if the problem is that serious ill have to spend quite a bit to get the thread welded back onto the rotor or whatever to repair the damage done by the nuts. only problem me and my mate -who knows quite a bit about turbo vehicles- picked up was just a scratch on the door that could be buffed out and thats it. the car was beautiful on the test drive.

Edited by SAZilla

Update: I rang mike said to him id pick up the car on monday definitely if that wheel was removed then refitted succesfully, he agreed and is getting a mechanic to do it. so thats sorted...

so yer 5 percent is what the RAA said, I gather thats 5 percent loss or 5 percent difference between all cylinders.

5% variation is a fair amount but I'd say its most likely <5% which is considered ok.

The chances of a car thats 10yrs old having near perfect compression ratio is slim.

Please cheak the head lights when you pick it up... I was excited and forgot to... Turned the head lights on and then had to hunt around for H3C bulbs that absolutely no one had apart from autobarn that was closed. :dry:

yep the lights in her have been changed already, all but this rear wheel bullshit is fine. all the suspension and undercarriage is fine aswell but he couldnt check out that disk and that wheel and anything behind it. i rang the guy and told him to fix it for me today so i can pick up car on monday. so hopefully all goes well

easy

when i go to pick up the car, with my mate, I will say:

"fixed that wheel?, I want to just check the brake pads and the rotor before I give you the cash."

then ill check it, find that its all good, and then bang im done.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I hope it's actually possible. This is a write off in insurance world.
    • Yup. 2-way with shallow ramp angles. Still works.
    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
×
×
  • Create New...