Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Did they say why they couldn't remove the rear left wheel?

Lock nut? Spinning stud?

Either way you should be able to spin the wheel around and see with a torch how much meat is left on the pad. Looking at the opposite wheel will give you a good indication how much meat is left on the left.

The skylines brakes wear fairly evenly due to being 4pots up the fronts and 2 pots at the rear. So the inner doesn't wear early like that of the usual clamp type pos brakes.

I wouldn't be concerned.

Have you bought it yet?

Get under the car and check the chassis rails for damage.

  • Replies 6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

yup :wave:

hey guys i need a little advice, im purchasing the car on friday but there is a small problem and that is the RAA couldnt get the rear left wheel off the car to check the brakes on that rotor.

Got any advice, should this sort of thing hold me up greatly?

why dont you take it to a workshop that specialises in skylines? RAA is pointless when it comes to these checks, they only good for when your car breaks down and needs a tow.

yup :wave:

hey guys i need a little advice, im purchasing the car on friday but there is a small problem and that is the RAA couldnt get the rear left wheel off the car to check the brakes on that rotor.

Got any advice, should this sort of thing hold me up greatly?

wtf? Id be wondering why they would not be able to take a wheel off...cbf, or something wrong?

I'm not too fond of the RAA inspections.

I bought a VS 5ltr 5speed some 7years ago, had it RAA inspected and they missed an obvious inlet manifold water leak and loose engine mount that had the exhaust hitting the body under acceleration. :wave:

The inlet manifold leak was a real pain in the arse to get fixed too.. They had the car for 3 weeks and racked up almost 70km's, I got it back and the clutch felt all spongy like they had been slipping it. :)

From there that car was down hill... Such a damn unreliable (drivetrain) money pit. Well at least the new owner got a good deal; new diff, gearbox and rear subframe. :O

The RAA said that "several of the wheel nuts were damaged, so unable to complete brake check."

The guy did a very thorough report and they do check everything on their check list. I mean id want a full refund of the 200 dollars i spent to get myself some peace of mind before buyin the car.

I'm not worried about the brake pad, Im worried about the wheel coming off, I think im going to tell him that I'm not coming to pick up the car until he can get that wheel off and then refit it with new nuts. without breaking his nuts is the key, but i guess im the one with the cash anyway.

Edited by SAZilla
The RAA said that "several of the wheel nuts were damaged, so unable to complete brake check."

The guy did a very thorough report and they do check everything on their check list. I mean id want a full refund of the 200 dollars i spent to get myself some peace of mind before buyin the car.

I'm not worried about the brake pad, Im worried about the wheel coming off, I think im going to tell him that I'm not coming to pick up the car until he can get that wheel off and then refit it with new nuts. without breaking his nuts is the key, but i guess im the one with the cash anyway.

so he has to brake a nut to get the broken nuts off :dry: how do nuts get broken...id ask for explanation.

he is thorough, but did they do a compression check?

yes, came up with 5 percent within eachother,

is that good?

@cubes, private sale bud

my mate said if the problem is that serious ill have to spend quite a bit to get the thread welded back onto the rotor or whatever to repair the damage done by the nuts. only problem me and my mate -who knows quite a bit about turbo vehicles- picked up was just a scratch on the door that could be buffed out and thats it. the car was beautiful on the test drive.

Edited by SAZilla

Update: I rang mike said to him id pick up the car on monday definitely if that wheel was removed then refitted succesfully, he agreed and is getting a mechanic to do it. so thats sorted...

so yer 5 percent is what the RAA said, I gather thats 5 percent loss or 5 percent difference between all cylinders.

5% variation is a fair amount but I'd say its most likely <5% which is considered ok.

The chances of a car thats 10yrs old having near perfect compression ratio is slim.

Please cheak the head lights when you pick it up... I was excited and forgot to... Turned the head lights on and then had to hunt around for H3C bulbs that absolutely no one had apart from autobarn that was closed. :dry:

yep the lights in her have been changed already, all but this rear wheel bullshit is fine. all the suspension and undercarriage is fine aswell but he couldnt check out that disk and that wheel and anything behind it. i rang the guy and told him to fix it for me today so i can pick up car on monday. so hopefully all goes well

easy

when i go to pick up the car, with my mate, I will say:

"fixed that wheel?, I want to just check the brake pads and the rotor before I give you the cash."

then ill check it, find that its all good, and then bang im done.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Skyline R33 Series 2 sedan tail lights in excellent condition. These are becoming harder to find, especially in this state.    BOTH SETS ARE IN FANTASTIC CONDITION (REFER TO PHOTOS)    ✅ No broken covers or cracks ✅ Lenses are in flawless condition ✅ All rear mounting lugs intact ✅ Comes complete as pictured ✅ Perfect for restoration, replacement, or upgrade   These lights are ready to go, no surprises just quality OEM parts.   These are definitely one of the better sets we have seen in a while. With minimal wear and tear they will come as you see. Bear in mind they are not brand new they are almost 30 years old now. To find them in this condition isn’t easy they can only be obtained on the second hand market.   Australia Wide Postage Available At Buyers Expense. Silver Set:$850 Grey Set:$850 PM Me for purchase or any other questions  IMG_2166.dng IMG_2165.dng IMG_2172.dng IMG_2173.dng IMG_2174.dng IMG_2179.dng IMG_2180.dng IMG_2260.dng IMG_2258.dng IMG_2259.dng IMG_2261.dng IMG_2266.dng IMG_2273.dng IMG_2274.dng IMG_2276.dng
    • Unsolicited advice? Keep the engine as close to stock as you can. Nothing wrong with adding some boost and making a little more power, but given where you are, you really don't want to try to make it into a monster. I can't imagine the roads are up to it, and the lack of locla support when it grenades will be a ball ache. FWIW, If there is a dyno around that you can access, then brand new injectors are a good idea, which will lead you to (at least) putting a Nistune in it, which will allow you to put an R35 AFM on it, all of which will make it possible to make it much much nicer to drive and live with.
    • List all of your mods. It sounds like an aftermarket ECU hitting rev limiter. Like a valet mode, or a cold rpm limiter? 
    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
×
×
  • Create New...