Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

seems we had a gig up in the party pit at work last night for clipsal.

so im thinking jarad may've been there?

sounded like it was pretty fun, its always great dealing funny money games, you get to f**k around and be a complete idiot all whilst being paid for it.

so pissed i wasnt rostered to work it, i loved the last function :D

seems i may finally be moving out of this hell hole of a house soon aswell, awesome!

means my skyline purchase might be put off for another year or so though, *sigh*

seems we had a gig up in the party pit at work last night for clipsal.

so im thinking jarad may've been there?

sounded like it was pretty fun, its always great dealing funny money games, you get to f**k around and be a complete idiot all whilst being paid for it.

so pissed i wasnt rostered to work it, i loved the last function :D

seems i may finally be moving out of this hell hole of a house soon aswell, awesome!

means my skyline purchase might be put off for another year or so though, *sigh*

Ohhhh noooo scandyflick!!

What happened to the soara?

Morn' all i so love not being @ work :D

was just looking around for some ideas for other peoples sigs and came across this might be a spoiler but anyway, just a message of think before we type makes a world of difference

1. Keyboard Warrior

...4. Keyboard Warriors are generally identified by unnecessary rage in their written communications, and are regarded as 'losers' by other virtual identities on the internet.

Has anyone changed the clutch on their 33 (or 32 with 25 box) and can provide some guidance? My clutch is showing signs of saying farewell, and I would like to give it a go myself but have never changed a clutch. Is there special tools needed (aligning tool?) and would it be possible to do it without a hoist? Also, removing the flywheel for machining, how hard is this? and how long would my car be out of action?

I tried to search the DIY section, found some help, but would like to know if anyone local would mind lending some advice and some help possibly :D

Cheers

Morn' all i so love not being @ work :D

was just looking around for some ideas for other peoples sigs and came across this might be a spoiler but anyway, just a message of think before we type makes a world of difference

<a href="http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=keyboard+warrior" target="_blank">1. Keyboard Warrior

...4. Keyboard Warriors are generally identified by unnecessary rage in their written communications, and are regarded as 'losers' by other virtual identities on the internet.</a>

Maz, :0

I am not a keyboard warrior, I am actually the total opposite and proud of it!!

Has anyone changed the clutch on their 33 (or 32 with 25 box) and can provide some guidance? My clutch is showing signs of saying farewell, and I would like to give it a go myself but have never changed a clutch. Is there special tools needed (aligning tool?) and would it be possible to do it without a hoist? Also, removing the flywheel for machining, how hard is this? and how long would my car be out of action?

I tried to search the DIY section, found some help, but would like to know if anyone local would mind lending some advice and some help possibly :nyaanyaa:

Cheers

You'll need a couple of long extension bars for those top gearbox bolts, clutch aligning tool, 2 hydraulic jacks, some rope, spanners, sockets, needle nose plyers or sirclip removers and a mate to give you a hand.

I drain the gearbox oil, remove the tail shaft from the rear of the gearbox, disconnect speedo drive all plugs remove the shifter (via inside the car), starter motor etc

Shove one jack under the rear of the gearbox and tie it up so it won't slip off while rotating the gearbox. One jack up front to help take some weight.

Drop the rear of the gearbox slightly so you can get at the top bell housing bolts easier, remove all bolts then get either side, slide the box out a little, rotate clockwise so the starter lump clears the floor pan and then slide it out while slowly lowering the jacks. ;)

Leave the box under the car and as it is. Remove old clutch and flywheel, have the flywheel faced if you wish and replace spiggot bush (pack the crank end full of grease and use a suitably sized socket and small extension bar + hammer to get the old out)

Smack in the new spiggot, attach flyweel remembering to locktight the bolts.

Loosly bolt up the new clutch, slide the clutch aligning tool in, tighten up the pressure place bolts then slide the gearbox in doing the opposite of what you did to remove it.

Refill with oil. I think thats it. :nyaanyaa:

EDIT: And always plan an escape route incase you drop the box. :D

You'll need a couple of long extension bars for those top gearbox bolts, clutch aligning tool, 2 hydraulic jacks, some rope, spanners, sockets, needle nose plyers or sirclip removers and a mate to give you a hand.

I drain the gearbox oil, remove the tail shaft from the rear of the gearbox, disconnect speedo drive all plugs remove the shifter (via inside the car), starter motor etc

Shove one jack under the rear of the gearbox and tie it up so it won't slip off while rotating the gearbox. One jack up front to help take some weight.

Drop the rear of the gearbox slightly so you can get at the top bell housing bolts easier, remove all bolts then get either side, slide the box out a little, rotate clockwise so the starter lump clears the floor pan and then slide it out while slowly lowering the jacks. ;)

Leave the box under the car and as it is. Remove old clutch and flywheel, have the flywheel faced if you wish and replace spiggot bush (pack the crank end full of grease and use a suitably sized socket and small extension bar + hammer to get the old out)

Smack in the new spiggot, attach flyweel remembering to locktight the bolts.

Loosly bolt up the new clutch, slide the clutch aligning tool in, tighten up the pressure place bolts then slide the gearbox in doing the opposite of what you did to remove it.

Refill with oil. I think thats it. :nyaanyaa:

EDIT: And always plan an escape route incase you drop the box. :D

Cheers for that cubes!

Do you do this in your shed with the car on Jack stands, or is a hoist really more necessary?

Also, where can you get a flywheel machined southern suburbs, and any idea of cost?

Cheers!

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
×
×
  • Create New...