Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

New to Skylines and am in the middle of getting one, very soon! likeby end of yer I hope

BUT I have a dilemma! Which one to get!?

Assuming both are the same price and both with no mods apart from a catback exhaust and twin filters.

Any comments/advice/anything would be great :P

cheers

jeff

Edited by jeff

Both impressive, from my impressions apart from the styling look at what you use the car for. If it's track work and you want to work the suspension the R32 is lighter but suspension work is needed to get the best out of the car particularly due to it's age. For non track work the R33, it also puts the power down better on standard suspension.

R33 anyday.....................R33 is new and less likely to have problems, who cares if the 32 is a v spec or not, doesn't mean more power, only suspension and brakes upgrade, and chances are, on the street wouldn't make that much difference anyway. Chances are, once you start modding, you'd want to upgrade to newer suspensions anyway so there is no point getting a v spec 2. The badge means didly squat. Also, good luck finding a v spec 2 since they are bloody rare anyway

yeah i like the 32 shape as well but the 33 interior is so much better

ok, what about this

looks aside, which one is the better buy?

mechanically and resale value

cheers

jeff

ps. the car will be a daily driver

daily driver, defintely a R33, it is SO MUCH more roomier than the 32. Resale value is hard to say, 32's have gone down to as low as 19k locally or 17k or less by import. 33's have gone down in price recently from 40k down to 30ks and some cheap 25k. If you are a hard core track whore then get find yourself an insanely cheap 32, strip it down and rebuild. But if you want something more comfy for cruising, then R33.

Out of the 10 people I know that got R32 GTRs, 7 of them are sitting int he garage getting rebuilt or collecting dust

i guess thats the main question.....how hard is it to find a nice clean 32 vspec ii?

what would be the main difference between the two?

would the price sway your decision?

32 vspec ii for $25k (12mths rego, will be 1st au owner)

33 gtr for $24k (7mths rego, will be 3rd au owner)

as people have said comes down to what you want to do

considering the 32 is a 94 and the 33 is a 95 you cant really say the 32 will be considerably less reliable as its only one year and probly are mechanical very similar

price is similar.... how many K's on each car? lower K car will be less worn obviously

as said the 33 is a more comfortable daily and the 32 is a bit harder/faster i.e. lighter , good for track

shape comes down to personal preference

i think with all the replies youve got and will get...the cars are quite similar and you will have to decide which one will suit your needs better and which you prefer

Good luck with purchase and make sure you check the engine health before you buy it (cant build a strong car on a weak engine)

RellikZephyr

Well, I'd be looking at it this way. The age of the 32 negates the vspec 2 "suspension benefits" over the newer R33. Why? Because of age that's why. Every single suspension component on the 32 will be older, and therefore softer when compared to the 33's.

But again, 32's look better. 32's are what everyone recognises...A 32 GTR is what I am looking for atm too.

For those that are saying 32's are faster on the track there are a few video's going around that show that stock for stock the 33 is faster around the track. That and the body rigidity of a stock 33 is much more than a stock 32. (We're talking GTR's here).

Ah well. Decisions, decisions.

thought i would make up my mind overnight but its still kinda cloudy up there :santa:

ive always wanted to own an r32 so I must have rocks in my head to go for the 33...guess Ive answered it now

anyone know the difference/simlarities between an r32 vspec and a vspecII?

..edited topic name to.... R32 GTR....normal vs vspec vs vspec II

ive read this http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=141358

and this

1989-1994 (R32)

R32 GT-RV-Spec.

[edit] R32 Nismo, N1, and V-Spec

Total production of the R32 GT-R was 43,394 units, with production starting on May 22, 1989 and ending in October 1994, which actually overlapped the release of the R33 Skyline by nearly a year. Four special editions were produced.

The Nismo GT-R was introduced in February 22, 1990, and had a total production of 560 units. It was used to homologate a number of changes to the original GT-R for Group A racing. The most notable change is the engine. It was upgraded to the R32-N1 specification engine. Other changes included additional ducts in the front bumper to improve airflow to the intercooler, a bonnet lip spoiler to direct more air into the engine bay, and an additional boot lip spoiler to reduce drag and provide more downforce. The car was also made lighter, by removing the ABS, air conditioning, sound system, rear wiper, and the trunk carpet. This Nismo model was only availible in Gunmetal Grey.

The N1 GT-R was introduced on July 19, 1991, and had a total production of only 228 units. The N1 model was equipped identically to the Nismo GT-R model. Except this time its introduction was for the homologation of Group N racing. It was only availible in Crystal White.

To celebrate the success of the GT-R in both N1 and Group A racing, Nissan introduced the V-Spec ("Victory Specification") car on February 3, 1993. The V-Spec added Brembo brakes and a retuned ATTESA-ETS system to the Nismo package, as well as 17" BBS wheels with 235/45/17 tires. The V-Spec had a list price of ¥ 5.260 million. N1 cars were then based on the V-Spec.

Finally on February 14, 1994 the V-Spec II was released, the only change to the V-Spec being wider 245/45/17 tires. Total production of the V-Spec I and II was 1,453 and 1,303 units respectively.

from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skyline_gtr

As if you'd get a 32. The have a chassis like a limp noodle.

Who cares if the 32 is .0001 faster down the quarter stock.

Which car out of the 32 GTR and 33 GTR is faster around a racetrack? Or the nuremberg (yeah i know about the spelling) ring?

Heck i could feel my 34 GT-t flex while driving really hard.

And they have more torsional stiffness than any R33 GTR.

The 33 is a better alround car. Sure if you want a cheap track weapon i too would probably get the 32 just because it's a cheap way to have some mad fun. But if i had the budget and desire to go real racing i'd take a 33 as a base.

A 32 is not cheap by any means.

The amount you save now you will be paying for in maintenance and general fixing up of things that will go wrong.

The smart option is to buy a 33. But if you've always wanted a 32 and you ended up with a 33 I think you'll eventually still want to get a 32...This alone means that you'll never be totally happy with the 33.

The smarter option is to wait till you can afford a 34 GTR. I know that even though I've lusted after a 32 GTR since they were running around Bathurst I would get a 34 GTR over a 32.

yeah, totally agree, even if i get the 33 now, back of my head will always be the 32...so ive pretty much made up my mind that 32 is the go. And for the money I want to spend, the best 33 I'll get at this stage is a normal 95 model anyway.

realistically an r34 is a long way away (10yrs +) so im not even going to think about that one...unless i start playing lotto and actually win! :D

A 32 is not cheap by any means.

The amount you save now you will be paying for in maintenance and general fixing up of things that will go wrong.

The smart option is to buy a 33. But if you've always wanted a 32 and you ended up with a 33 I think you'll eventually still want to get a 32...This alone means that you'll never be totally happy with the 33.

The smarter option is to wait till you can afford a 34 GTR. I know that even though I've lusted after a 32 GTR since they were running around Bathurst I would get a 34 GTR over a 32.

i have one of the oldst 32 gtr and as far as having to spend money on it its only cause i wanted 2,turbos,pfc and so on.. if ya shop round like i did ya will find as good a 32 as any...

as far as waiting for a 34 screw that,spend the money on the 32 and have a weapon of a car....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...