Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey there,

Some of you may know I have a problem with my R33 at the moment, seems as though it is missing, anyhow thanks to help of people here they said either the Spark Plugs, ECU or Fuel Filter would be my problem.

Now I'm just in the process of taking the Spark Plugs out to check them, now I just want to make sure I've got the right plugs here.

They say on them:

NGK

R

PFR5G

11

Edited by GTS793
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148652-spark-plugs/
Share on other sites

Yeah, they are irridium plugs and apparently RB's don't like them too much.

Car only has the following mods:

- K & N Pod Filter

- Cold Air Intake

- Forged Pistons

- Strengthen Conrods

- Blueprinted

- Balanced

- Port Polished

- Metal Head gasket

- Spitfire Coils

- High Performance Timing Belt

- High Performance Spark Plugs

- Gready Turbo Timer

Everything else is stock, stock ECU, stock boost etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148652-spark-plugs/#findComment-2773406
Share on other sites

Use these plugs I have never had a problem

with them and so has many other R33's

In regards to your previous thread,

concerning your missing issue.

I would check your coil packs for fine hair-line

cracks, which release the current as they heat-up.

Resulting in an insignificant spark that does not

ignite the combustion chamber(s) properly.

Merry Christmass

Hope this helps,

Cheers,

Bill

Edited by Nabil
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148652-spark-plugs/#findComment-2773415
Share on other sites

Hey there,

Some of you may know I have a problem with my R33 at the moment, seems as though it is missing, anyhow thanks to help of people here they said either the Spark Plugs, ECU or Fuel Filter would be my problem.

Now I'm just in the process of taking the Spark Plugs out to check them, now I just want to make sure I've got the right plugs here.

They say on them:

NGK

R

PFR5G

11

Is the number 11 the heat range? If so, is that right? What should it be?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148652-spark-plugs/#findComment-2773444
Share on other sites

Everyone is telling me different plugs, I don't know what ones to buy tomorrow ..don't want to trust Autobarn either.

I've been told use:

BKR6E Gapped at 0.78 or BCPR7ES

Not trusting them is like saying you dont trust the NGK listing, which is fairly good considering NGK make genuine Nissan plugs.

They will list Platinum plugs for your car. Highly doubt they will have BCPR7ES on shelf tho.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148652-spark-plugs/#findComment-2773449
Share on other sites

As you already have splitfires it eliminates coil problems as you have stated.

There's nothing wrong with the plugs you have in there now for the turbo and boost you are running. Gapping them down at stockish boost levels is pointless, it's usually just a mask for dud coils.

I suspect your problem lies with the stock ecu running into rich and retard, which in turn introduces a rich miss. A colder plug as recommended above will make the problem worse as it is more sensitive to over fueling and fouling, particularly at lower plug gaps.

As a first move, gap your existing plugs down to .9 or so and see what happens. Then get the car to a dyno for a power run and see what the mixtures are like, while it's there get the fuel pressure checked at the rail to see if your pump or fuel filter is dead/dying.

Just for reference, i run splitfires, 20psi and 7 heat range plugs at .9 gap with no miss/fouling issues.

good luck!

edit; looks like you posted while i was writing. congrats on the find. almost certainly the problem. Just so you know, plugs don't just burn off electrodes for no reason....

Edited by BHDave
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148652-spark-plugs/#findComment-2773468
Share on other sites

Id be more worried now what damage the pissing part of the plug did to the cylinder, the piston, and possiably more parts of the engine.

Thats what I am worried about now, esp after I forked out 6G's for a Forged rebuild.

What would have caused the plug to do this? It was only 1-2mts old.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148652-spark-plugs/#findComment-2773472
Share on other sites

edit; looks like you posted while i was writing. congrats on the find. almost certainly the problem. Just so you know, plugs don't just burn off electrodes for no reason....

Yeah, thanks for writing all that up though.

Now I need to find out why the plug did that and why, it is wierd I've never heard of it happing before. Anyone know what I should do now - anything I need to check before putting in a set of new plugs?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148652-spark-plugs/#findComment-2773473
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm selling my personal race car. 1992 BNR32 Skyline GT-R About eight years ago the engine developed the dreaded low oil pressure problem. I removed it and found the issue. However shortly after I moved half way across the country, moved my work shop, bought a house, got married, then moved my shop again to it's permanent location for the time being. in turn I do not have the time to race this car as it should be. In turn the engine I built for this car will end up in my street car and this car I hope finds a home with someone who can use it to it's full potential. The roll bar was built by Jason Noren Fabricaiton in Pomona California to SCCA and NASA Specs. The car used to compete in redline time attack and global time attack enthusiast class. It also has a fire suppression system.  The car is with me at my workshop in Kyle Texas, USA. Shipping it is no problem, I can personally deliver the car to the port of either Houston or Los Angeles. Any other port depending on where it is may require transport but we can always work that out.   The chassis itself is rust free, rear quarters and under fenders are free of any rust so it's a very solid foundation for anyone who wishes to move forward with it. As posted and at the asking price of $20,000 USD the car includes all of the following;   All OEM Body panels, front fenders, rear bumpers etc.  OEM Nissan Projector headlamps (Pictured N1 lamps were removed) OEM Nismo Side Skirts / Extensions OEM Rear Spats  Front & Rear Subframes are installed car is full roller Rear Subframe has Cusco Camber Arms, Whiteline HICAS Elimination Front Subframe has Whiteline tension rods and whiteline Sway bars w/ endlinks.  Buddy Club N1 Coilovers All chassis wiring and engine wiring is in tact. Attessa System is fully in tact and was functional before engine removal.  BCNR33 GT-R Brembo Brakes F+R with Endless MX72 Plus Pads, DBA Rotors & Stainless Steel Brake lines Billion Racing Radiator Billion Radiator Hoses Fluidyne Engine Oil Cooler Accusump System (trunk Mounted) 5 Speed Transmission w/ Transfer Case F+R Prop-shafts Rear Differential With rear Axles.  Nismo Gauge Cluster Nismo Clutch + Flywheel   Essentially what is needed to make this car running and driving again is as follows: A working Engine, an ECU, and time to put it together. The price posted is or best offer as I am willing to remove some components to accommodate price to a certain extent. If any serious buyer wants full detailed pictures, videos, or any questions I'll be happy to answer them. I believe this car is priced to move quickly considering it's a rust free and very straight chassis but always open to fair negotiation.  I can be contacted via phone or email. (+19517081648) email is [email protected]   
    • So...to my (and my mechanics doing the swap) surprise...the oil pan from NEO engine does not fit 100% and needs to by modified like this: It is not a huge problem but in the future i want a "proper" oil pan. So question is...what different oil pan can i get to fit without any problems and modification? Thanks! 
    • Some more info I found.  These are the last entries Yoshikiyo Fujii made on his blog before he passed away in 2009: http://blog.livedoor.jp/fujii_dynamics/ And finally this is where the workshop was situated:  https://maps.app.goo.gl/HhTPtHzt3WVcBTiEA  
    • shit boxes, kids, and daily drivers are all welcome
    • Cam seals go hard. It's a very old car.
×
×
  • Create New...