Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

isn't that just the duty cycle?

nope ;) ones frequency, ones duty cycle.

it can adjust both. all other ebc's only allow an adjustable duty cycle, with a set frequency - which is understandable since they come with their own solenoid and they probably found whats optimum. the jaycar ebc doesnt come with one, so you use your own, so they allow you to fine tune that - i believe the jaycar runs at 10hz out of the box, which i think is a bit low but anyways.. also the jaycar shows the ACTUAL duty cycle you are running, where as most other ebc's have their own numbering system representing the actual duty cycle.

edit: fyi, as an example a solenoid running at 10hz means it opens and closes 10 times a second, so at 50% duty cycle it opens 5 times a second. too low a frequency can cause fluctuating boost when you reach max boost (which is the problem i had).

Edited by mokompri
Its the same EBC whether you are running an external or integral wastegate. There are 3 ports on the solenoid and the wastegate type that you are running determines which of the two ports you connect to and use. I have had the same AVC-R run my std turbo and my TD06 with external gate.

Thanks for clearing that up Roy. Don't know why Perfect Run says there's 2 different types though :( Or at least that's the way I read it. A bit misleading really:

http://www.perfectrun.com.au/performance%2...oostconavcr.htm

nope :) ones frequency, ones duty cycle.

it can adjust both. all other ebc's only allow an adjustable duty cycle, with a set frequency - which is understandable since they come with their own solenoid and they probably found whats optimum. the jaycar ebc doesnt come with one, so you use your own, so they allow you to fine tune that - i believe the jaycar runs at 10hz out of the box, which i think is a bit low but anyways.. also the jaycar shows the ACTUAL duty cycle you are running, where as most other ebc's have their own numbering system representing the actual duty cycle.

edit: fyi, as an example a solenoid running at 10hz means it opens and closes 10 times a second, so at 50% duty cycle it opens 5 times a second. too low a frequency can cause fluctuating boost when you reach max boost (which is the problem i had).

Just some extra information: The solenoid won't actually open & close if the frequency is high enough. The idea is to actually pump a frequency into the solenoid that is high enough that it stops opening & closing so that it holds a certain position, but not so high that it stops responding properly. Solenoids are tricky things, each 1 works differently & will respond at different speeds their power input, which is why you'd have the frequency change.

If the solonoid is actually opening & closing at 10 Hz it's gonna cause mayhem with the boost.

Edited by JazzaR33
nope :( ones frequency, ones duty cycle.

it can adjust both. all other ebc's only allow an adjustable duty cycle, with a set frequency - which is understandable since they come with their own solenoid and they probably found whats optimum. the jaycar ebc doesnt come with one, so you use your own, so they allow you to fine tune that - i believe the jaycar runs at 10hz out of the box, which i think is a bit low but anyways.. also the jaycar shows the ACTUAL duty cycle you are running, where as most other ebc's have their own numbering system representing the actual duty cycle.

edit: fyi, as an example a solenoid running at 10hz means it opens and closes 10 times a second, so at 50% duty cycle it opens 5 times a second. too low a frequency can cause fluctuating boost when you reach max boost (which is the problem i had).

duty cycle is the ratio of the non-zero component of the pulse to the total time of a single pulse. Freq. is Hz..i.e. osc / second...

You can run a 10Hz signal and have 50% duty - i.e. square wave. If you adjust the duty cycle would can still run 10Hz but have a duty of say 70%....longer on pulses...however the freq can remain the same...

Hence as you have suggested, once you have found the op. freq. of our soladoid then there is not need to adjust freq..just duty and I assume thats what most major products are doing...adjusting pulse width at a constant frequency.

As for the AVCR...it displays duty at a %, maxx 100...so I assume it dispaying the actual duty..

Just some extra information: The solenoid won't actually open & close if the frequency is high enough. The idea is to actually pump a frequency into the solenoid that is high enough that it stops opening & closing so that it holds a certain position, but not so high that it stops responding properly. Solenoids are tricky things, each 1 works differently & will respond at different speeds their power input, which is why you'd have the frequency change.

If the solonoid is actually opening & closing at 10 Hz it's gonna cause mayhem with the boost.

yeap your right, julian makes mention of this in the book and the manual, he says the solenoid 'hovers' between the open and close state with a high enough frequency (not necessarily a bad thing). if i had a multimeter that measured frequency i would have tried around 15hz and see how that went on my sr20 stock solenoid.

duty cycle is the ratio of the non-zero component of the pulse to the total time of a single pulse. Freq. is Hz..i.e. osc / second...

You can run a 10Hz signal and have 50% duty - i.e. square wave. If you adjust the duty cycle would can still run 10Hz but have a duty of say 70%....longer on pulses...however the freq can remain the same...

Hence as you have suggested, once you have found the op. freq. of our soladoid then there is not need to adjust freq..just duty and I assume thats what most major products are doing...adjusting pulse width at a constant frequency.

As for the AVCR...it displays duty at a %, maxx 100...so I assume it dispaying the actual duty..

yes i realise all of that and that the frequency remains the same when you change duty cycle, but your missing the point, there is[/] a reason why you would want to adjust the frequency. like i said, with too low a frequency the output stream of air is too 'choppy' (pulses of air are too big and seperated) and gives fluctuating boost, increasing the frequency within the limit of the solenoid gives a more linear stream of air that goes to the wastegate that gives a more stable boost.

as for the avcr, ive never used but if thats what it displays then its one of the exceptions :)

Edited by mokompri
but your missing the point

no I'm not...it was in response to this regarding your FYI

fyi, as an example a solenoid running at 10hz means it opens and closes 10 times a second, so at 50% duty cycle it opens 5 times a second

this is clearly incorrect. 10Hz = 10 open & and closes per second...its not related to duty at all. Hnce if some1 says 50% duty you cannot relate it to Freq. without more information.

anyway who cares...

AVCR for the win IMO...set and forget...

yeap your right, julian makes mention of this in the book and the manual, he says the solenoid 'hovers' between the open and close state with a high enough frequency (not necessarily a bad thing). if i had a multimeter that measured frequency i would have tried around 15hz and see how that went on my sr20 stock solenoid.

Yeah this is actually the ideal situation for the solonoid, it's actually not very good if it's opening & closing continuously as it will shorten the life of the solonoid from the amount of movement as well as causing vibrations for heavier solonoids.

The frequency is normally kept constant for a given set up. Very unusual for it to use frequency modulation as well.

Apexi AVCR Blue Screen version.

I love this EBC...you can have 2 settings...easy to change while driving...easy to see whats happening. can chnage pretty much everything I would need...like rev specific boost etc...although I have never done it.

Hasn't spiked once...I am running it at 1.3 bar atm...seems to b smooth as...

Not that I have used anything else.

I have the AVR_R too. Happy with the way it performs, however I would prefer easier boost change (e.g. from A-B settting), it would be easier to have an "A" button and a "B" button or HI/LOW boost button, instead of having to navigate through the menu.

Saying that, it does the job it is meant to, doesnt spike and holds boost nicely right up to redline.

I probably should have gone the Apexi boost control add on for the PFC, and if i had the choice again that is what I would do. It is one less thing to try to mount on the dash (and hide from cops/thieves).

Apart from the billion other functions this boost controller has, id spend the money and will never buy another type. Wastegate pressure is around 14psi so the boost controller picks up the rest. Was worth the money thats for sure.

Turbosmart E-Boost 2 FTW!

Proof is below :laugh:

300rwhpwi5.th.jpg

Ok a bit of a quick question for you guys with the AVC-R How big is the control solonoid?

Reason I ask is that I want to keep everything as hidden as possible & am thinking of trying to hide the controller underneath the air box. I just went into Autobarn a few days back & they had Blitz controller module on display (I think for the Dual SBC model), it was HUGE. Not sure that I want to shove something quite that bulky in my engine bay full stop.

a bit bigger than a box of matches, its obviousl because it usually has large plastic tubing running to it, some poeple even have the air tubes in bright colours so its a giveway

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Back again. I returned to Japan in Jul/Aug to spend time with the car on my birthday and remind myself what all the sacrifice and compromise is for. It happened to line up with the monthly morning meet in Okutama, which I have been wanting to go to for a long time. It's a unique event at a unique spot with really rare, interesting, and quirky cars. It's where all the oldheads and OGs gather. The nighttime scene at DKF certainly has its place and should be experienced if you're into cars, but there's too much bad attention and negativity around it now. IMO the better time is Sunday morning at DKF or Okutama; it's more chill and relaxed. I'm glad I was finally able to go, but not sure it's worth the drive from all the way from Nagoya immediately the day before, unless I was already staying in Tokyo for the days right before the meet, because you have to wake up quite early to make it in time. Funnily enough though I didn't drive the car all that much this trip because it was just too damn hot. While there were zero issues and running temps were nominal and the A/C was strong, RBs already run crazy hot as it is. Sure, it took it all like a champ but something about driving these cars in the ridiculous heat/humidity bothers me and makes me feel like I'm asking too much of it. I'm just me being weird and treating the car like a living thing with feelings; I'm mechanically sympathetic to a fault. Instead I was mainly driving something else around - a KX4(silver) 2001 X-Trail GT, that I acquired in May. There's a few different flavors to choose from with Xs, but visually it's the Nissan version of the Honda CR-V. Mechanically it's a whole different story as this, being the top-trim GT, has an SR20VET mated to a four-speed auto and full-time AWD! It was a very affordable buy in exceptional condition inside and out, with very low mileage...only 48k kms. Most likely it was owned by an older person who kept it garaged and well-maintained, so I'm really happy with how it all worked out. It literally needs zero attention at the moment, albeit except for some minor visual touch-ups. I wanted something quirky, interesting, and practical and for sure it handily delivers on all three of those aspects. I was immediately able to utilize the cargo and passenger capacity to its full extent. It's a lot of fun to drive and is quite punchy through 1st and 2nd. It's very unassuming -in the twisty bits it's a lot more composed than one would think at a glance- and it'll be even better once I get better tires on it(yes, it's an SUV but still a little boat-y for my liking). So...now I have two golden-era Nissans in silver. One sports car and one that does everything else; the perfect two-car solution I think👍 The rest of the trip...I was able to turn my stressed brain off and enjoy it, although I didn't quite get to do as much as I thought. I did some interesting things, met some interesting people, and happened into some interesting situations however, that's all for another post though only if people really want to know. Project-wise, I went back to Mine's again to discuss more plans and am hoping to wrap that up real soon; keep watching this space if that interests you. Additionally, while working in the tormenting sweatbox that is the warehouse, I was able to organize most of the myriad of parts that my friend is storing for me along with the cars, and the 34 has a nice little spot carved out for it: And since it can get so stupid hot in there, that made it all the more easy -after I was standing there looking at the car and said 'f**k it'- to finally remove all the damn gauges that have mostly been an eyesore all this time. Huzzah. The heat basically makes the adhesive backing on the gauge mounts more pliable to work with, so it was far less stressful getting this done. I didn't fully clean it up or chase the wiring though; that will happen once I have the car in closer possession. Another major reason to remove all that stuff is to give people less reasons to get in my car and steal s**t while it's being exported/imported when/if the time comes, which leads us to my next point... ...and that is even though it's time in Japan is technically almost up since it's a November car and the X would be coming in March, I'm still not entirely sure where my life and career is headed; I don't really know what the future looks like and where I'm going to end up. I feel there's a great deal of uncertainty with me and as a result of that, it feels like I'm at a crossroads moreso now than any point in my life thus far and there are some choices I need to make. Yes, I've had some years to consider things and prepare myself, however too much has happened in that time to maintain confidence and everything feels so up in the air; tenuous one might say. Simply put, there's just too much nonsense going on right now from multiple vectors. Admittedly, I'm struggling to stay in the game and keep my eyes on the prize. So much so in fact, that very recently I came the closest I ever have before to calling it quits outright; selling everything and moving on and not looking back. The astute among you will pick up on key subtext within this paragraph. In the meantime I've still managed to slowly acquire some final bits for the car, but it feels nice knowing there's not much left to get and I'm almost across that finish line; I have almost everything I'll ever want for my interpretation and expression on what it is I think an R34 should be. 'til later.
    • Thanks for that, hadn’t used my brain enough to think about that. 
    • Also playing with fire if they start to flow more air down low than what the stock twins can. It's not even up top you need to worry, it can be at 3000rpm and part throttle and it's getting way more flow than it should.
    • Any G40/1000 or G40/1250 results out there?  
    • You still want a proper tune on the stock ECU though. Stock tune + stock ECU with GT-SS/-9s is probably playing with fire if you're running more than stock airflow/power.
×
×
  • Create New...