Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Don't know if anyone is as stupid as me to do it, but I think I may have.

I had to replace the top section of the dash in the 32. Went through all fine and perfect, until we put it back together and figured the speedo was now not working.

First assumption was "Oh, its not connected properly, shouldnt be a big drama"

Anyway, we took it back off on the weekend (after having HICAS dramas) and I think I farked it. The little tip that connects to the cluster (removable plastic thing) has become removed from the back of the cluster and is wedged in the hole where the speedo usually connects..and I tried my ass off trying to get it out but because there's so much lubrication shit in there u cant get a grip on it (pliers, pins, flat head screwdrivers etc) my mate even tried his vacuum LMAO and it still wouldnt come out.

Anyhow.. has anyone had a similar problem to this and how much would it cost to fix if so??

I need to try and get it done ASAP because after about 10 mins of driving my HICAS shits itself and I loose a lot of power in the steering. Its hackable but its not great ;).

Does anyone also know if this HICAS problem would go hand in hand with no speedo?

Cheers (Sorry, I have NFI about skylines, my last cars were commodores)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149490-i-think-i-screwed-my-cluster/
Share on other sites

Hey dude. I read through your post a few times but not 100% on what happened. Did the lug at the end of the speedo cable break off and is now stuck in the back of the dash cluster?

No speedo input will cause HICAS to stuff up as HICAS does different things at low/mid/high speeds.

Here's a pic of the back of my dash cluster - where did this lug go?

Mark

post-14114-1167719948.jpg

Sorry, i'm pretty hopeless when trying to explain something technically.

Basically that little piece that joins the speedo (the cable that controls the speedo) has come detached and has been pushed into the hole that it would usually sit in whilst connected to the speedo.

Also, HICAS has only be playing up since this has happened.. its really strange

Edited by Yidz

same thing happened to me. The plastic thing is supposed to stay attached to the speedo cable

Go for a little drive to see if that white plastic piece still spins inside the white cup. If it does, then it just slides into the cluster and turns the speedo

If it isnt turning you can re-sleeve it with a straw which will make the whole assembly a tight fit again. Other people have superglued it back in place. But you must make sure the plastic tip is pressed hard into the speedo cable and stays there so it has no choice but to turn with the cable.

I dunno if thats clear enough but if you have questions just ask and ill be able to answer them cause ive just done exactly the same thing a month back

Nah that little plastic piece is away from the cluster and in the hole where the speedo cable is. Its really small and it goes all the way into the speedo cable.

I originally thought it was suppose to be connected to the cluster or is it suppose to be in the hole in the speedo cable?

Either way, the plastic piece is in too far into that hole.. and I cant get anything to wedge it out if you understand what i mean because its not making a connection from the speedo cable to the cluster.

Sorry if I'm making it hard to understand..

its supposed to be where it is. a little spring should sit inbetween it and the cable which pushes it out far enough so it can interlock in the cluster.

go for a drive and if it spins, then it should be able to turn the cluster once you put it back together properly

its supposed to be where it is. a little spring should sit inbetween it and the cable which pushes it out far enough so it can interlock in the cluster.

go for a drive and if it spins, then it should be able to turn the cluster once you put it back together properly

its supposed to be where it is. a little spring should sit inbetween it and the cable which pushes it out far enough so it can interlock in the cluster.

Ok I think you have picked it.. When we took the cluster out the spring must have fallen out somewhere, as I know that isn't there, hence why that plastic piece has gone too far in the speedo cable, because its gone into the smaller hole that the spring must take up.

It must be pretty tiny to fit through that hole and we must have misplaced it.

The dash is all back together as I had to drive it a few times in between, but im 99% sure thats what would of happened.

I havent vacuumed the car since so hopefully with a bit of luck its fallen onto the floor or something :P

Its pretty easy to do if you have some basic knowledge of your car. The cable simply bolts into the drivers side of the gearbox. There are some clips that hold it in place that easily come out. The cable enters the cabin about half-way up the fire wall, roughly in-line with your knees. Its a small black triangle with three bolts if i remeber correctly. The end is exactly what you see when you remove the cluster. The attachment that goes into the back is simply held in place behind the dash. Its pretty easy to remove. I wouldn't pay someone to do it but it depends on how confident you are working on your car. I've put some pics in. Look for the black plastic thing on the firewall.

post-29295-1167874007.jpg

post-29295-1167874077.jpg

post-29295-1167874128.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • 🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
×
×
  • Create New...