Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I don't think I'd buy through an import business anyway...most of them seem a bit dodgy, as do the vehicles they have on offer...esp the ones that you think have reasonable price tags. If and when I get an R33, I'd prefer not to spend huge amounts of cash getting it roadworthy and/or respectable looking.

Hey thanks for the info Ydawak! much appreciated...sounds like I should stear clear if the dude is thrashing the shite out of his car.

  • Replies 65
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

hay most of us thrash cars, but it depends how you do it. Some people are just plain rough.

YEAH make sure you check out any car before you buy it.

Thats right and it also comes down to services and maintanence of the vehicle as well.

You can drive a car hard and have fun but still look after it :dry:

But i'll give one word of advice, dont by a bike from me :O:O:O:O

gotta agree with grandmasterb :dry:

R32's in that price range you will find a nice car.

R33's ??? That'd be an auto 93 model in TAS.

I even thouut getting back into an R32, if it wasn't for the 2ltr!!! lol

Hey all I'm a new forum user, I recently purchused my first R33 after spending a few years with rotarys, namly Rx7's but am happy I have made the big switch! I'm located here in Devonport. I just wanted to "wade" into the war of the 13k R33. I recently bought my R33 for a little under 13K it is immac inside better than reasonable outside, low Ks, great mags and new tyres, mostly stock and hasnt been thrashed, so as someone was saying if you look hard enough.... but the thing is you have to be patient!. I am looking forward to chatting with you guys in tassie/echanging info as i am relitvly new to skylines, but not a complete dumbass!

used to be "Rotar On"-- now " Keen, Willing & Eager 2 DRIFT" by the way I have lots of immac R33 parts I scored of a bloke who wrote his off! dont know if i did this properly but hers a pic of my old bus that i decided not to put a S6 13B TT and spent the money on my new R33, I am glad i did it! will post some pics of R33 when get orginised, cheers Damo

post-34389-1167985247.jpg

Good find!

Ok guys...(maybe) upping the ante here! What would $15k get me in the way of an R33?

Also, I saw an ad for a 1994 Silver SZ Supra for sale in Launceston for $15k (130,000kms, 3inch ex., Pod, 17inch rims & a body kit of some description), wondering if anyone knows about the car in question.

Cheers!

Ok! I've upped to ante $2k from $13k.

I'm now willing to spend up to $15k on the right R33 or R32. Anyone know of some potential cars??

If you put a little more to it you would be able to look at somthing along the lines as Toffs r33 4door (think he still has it for sale) or the one thats forsale in the tas section.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=150578

Edited by woolls
Ok! I've upped to ante $2k from $13k.

I'm now willing to spend up to $15k on the right R33 or R32. Anyone know of some potential cars??

There is plenty around cobber you just have to do the research.

Like Leigh said there is Toff's 4 door (one very shmick car) and Nathan's open to offer on his.

I can think of 3 32's for sale off the top of my head that are very clean/quick cars and i can also think of about 4 33's.

Have you spoken to any importers at all to see whats around???

Check out Aussie Car Complance. I got my car from them.

http://www.aussiecarcompliance.com.au/cars4sale.htm

If you do not wish to have warranty and 12 months region, take $1000 off. so that means there are a few there to look at. EXCEPT THE wine red R33 S1.5, that is sold, to me.

Edited by WogsRus

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...