Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well I started on my rebuild today...with my heart in my mouth...

Unplugged the ecu, took out tail shaft, unbolted it all from the intercooler etc etc,

Tomorrow hopefully it will be out. Then comes the tedious hard part, The rebuild etc...

Anyway, will keep you informed as to how it is all going.

From all the options I have looked at I have decided to build an RB2.2det. Hopefully will take 6 months or so.

Cheers,

Russ

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14973-started-on-the-rebuild-today/
Share on other sites

brackets that need to be made...small things that dont fit cause youre using diffent engine bits...larger injectors, bigger turbo, upgrade gearbox to handle the power, Its always going to be more expensive to build because it is not a standard engine so things will have to be machined more and modified more than if you built a standard engine.

Russ

Have you done it before? Big task to attempt if you haven't but thumbs up for giving it a good go!

But i guess i've started on a reasonable amount of pulling my engine apart, and probably could work out how, just have no reason to. .. its all mostly just bolts after all.

building a 3ltr really isnt that much more,if u use the rb25head u can use things like exaust manifold,maybe the turbo if yourve got like a t04 already, and the bottom end stuff for the rb30 it actually pretty cheap,i prices brand new pistons and chromeoly rings for the rb30et and they came to $400 for the set, (thats through work)

how much power are u looking for out of this rebuild?

cause im looking at doing the exact same thing

yeah, so russ, expanding on what narky said, is the extra .2 mainly done for torque? or power? Any other advantages of increasing the litres?

cheers, and good luck with the rebuild!! I really want to find out how everything all works, etc, so when i get my skyline hopefully i'll be able to do most of the things on the car. Service etc.

extra .2 will give more torque and more power thru more capacity...nothing startling there, also might as well because it is just as easy to do 82mm bore and still undecided as to whether I will use rb20 crank or rb25 crank...they give 2.2 or 2.3 litres respectivly(roughly).

just about to actually remove the engine from the car right now....crosses fingers.

going to try and get the engine and gbox out in one go.

Russ

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
×
×
  • Create New...