Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey fellas just went and got on the dyno for the first time to see how my car is performing asi had suspicions it was a tad slower than other standard skylines

mods so far are turbo back kakimoto exhaust, atmo BOV, thats pretty much it for engine wise

my first run was 132rwkw which was a bit low hence why my car didnt feel very quick compared to others

after a few more runs which were pretty equal we put a nismo fpr on and also the turbotech boost controller... ths is where the problems began

at stock boost it was ok almost the same as before but as soon as we ran a bit more boost it (as little as 9-10psi) will have a bad power curve like the ecu is retarding/lowering boost or something to that extent and was much lower power than stock

pretty much all we tried turned out bad so ended up putting the boost back on 8psi with the turbotech (122rwkw this time, lost 10kw from stock although the day did get hotter by about 5 degrees is that makes any difference)

am i going into rich and retard mode or something like that? the mechanic didnt have too much experience with r33s so he didnt have much more of an idea

here is a picture of the dyno results (green line = stock, red = with fpr and boost controller, black is running about 10-11psi)

someone help please!! lol what can i do? is the only option an aftermarket computer?

dyno1.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149882-my-first-dyno-run/
Share on other sites

Was any thing done to tune your car?

I made 202 rwkw(270.9rwhp) with 10psi , pod filter , dump back exhaust, stock ecu stock turbo, walbro fuel pump, FMIC

My previous r33 dead stock did 201rwhp wiht stock airbox etc and its power curve didnt look as ruff as ur one??

fpr is brand new nismo item, so im pretty sure its good unless it came faulty from factory

im using standard airbox atm until my cai setup arrives..

we played around with the timing but only got worse results

its like as soon as it hit about 110kw it just shits itself, with higher boost its MUCH more of a dip, dips down to about 70kw

any way i can check afm ? my other mechanic put his computer on it and only error was the HICAS was getting no signal all other sensors were fine

My SII R33 pulled 144rw/kw stock as a rock (7psi) then 165rw/kw with full exhaust (7psi) so theoretically at 10psi i should be looking closer to 175rw/kw.

Your dyno graph looks all over the shop once it hits full boost. My car had a simillar dip at 5000rpm due to misfiring coils and now that its fixed its smooth to redline... can you feel those power dips on the road? and misfiring/hesitation? Spark gap may be too big and the boost is blowing out the spark.. try 0.8mm gap... check coils...

Hope all goes well dude!

Regards,

Sarkis

My SII R33 pulled 144rw/kw stock as a rock (7psi) then 165rw/kw with full exhaust (7psi) so theoretically at 10psi i should be looking closer to 175rw/kw.

Your dyno graph looks all over the shop once it hits full boost. My car had a simillar dip at 5000rpm due to misfiring coils and now that its fixed its smooth to redline... can you feel those power dips on the road? and misfiring/hesitation? Spark gap may be too big and the boost is blowing out the spark.. try 0.8mm gap... check coils...

Hope all goes well dude!

Regards,

Sarkis

Coils could be likley, does it misfire? u probly cant hear the misfire with stock muffler.

Yeah air fuel seems rich? correct me if im wrong too?

yeah it is rich it should be around 12 or something, but i cant do nothing about that until i get a computer right?

the spark plugs are gapped at 1.0mm just changed them a week aggo with platinums. the coils seemed ok but never looked at them 100%.

there sometimes seem to be a little flatspot and then it kicks on again , it doesnt backfire only sometime on the shifting of gears but not very loud

Coils could be likley, does it misfire? u probly cant hear the misfire with stock muffler.

Yeah air fuel seems rich? correct me if im wrong too?

See if you can borrow a PFC and see if that makes it feel better (maybe through it on the dyno)

You shouldn't need a Nismo FPR - that is just adding another variable.. you would usually use this to richen things up by adding extra fuel pressure (I..e when nearly maxing out injectors)

You are most likely hitting R&R..but the curve is very wobbly.

Was any thing done to tune your car?

I made 202 rwkw(270.9rwhp) with 10psi , pod filter , dump back exhaust, stock ecu stock turbo, walbro fuel pump, FMIC

My previous r33 dead stock did 201rwhp wiht stock airbox etc and its power curve didnt look as ruff as ur one??

Very happy dyno :D

Looks like rich and retard....but at a low boost, got me stuffed but im no expert.

Lose the BOV and boost controller and FPR for now. Then put the car back on the dyno and ofcourse as suggested gap the plugs to 0.8. I think your problems will go away.

But youre running less than 10 afr (the graph shows 10 but i think it has gone below and simply reads the minimum on the graph which is 10) which is no good. You lose a lot power at 10afr...well I know I did.

Interested to see how this goes.

Edited by 180bfj20det

Please take that FPR and atmo venting BOV off.. and leave them off

There is no way on a stock ecu that you want to increase the Fuel Pressure unless something else is not functioning properly(e.g. fuel pump).

Everyone knows they run rich when on boost and also can go into rich and retard mode. Addiing more fuel rail pressure means this is even more pronounced...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...