Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, i have been having an intermittent problem with my r33 gtst for a few weeks now. when driving along, it just stops firing on all cylinders and dies, but picks up again before it stalls. i have just replaced the coils and plugs, so i think it may be the crank sensor. has anyone ever experienced a similar problem before?? its really bugging me and any insight as to what may be wrong would be greatly appreciated :laugh:

Thanks, Bill

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/150184-electrical-problems/
Share on other sites

I too am having the same problem. My car is an R33 S2 GTST Automatic. It has been stalling while idling at the lights and in some cases takes a while to start after stalling. I have also noticed revs dropping significantly while driving and the accellerator feeling sticky when this happens. Stalled as i was taking off from the lights last night.

Car has been with the mechanics twice who have still not figured out the problem. First time in, they changed the oxy sensor which made no difference at all, 2nd time in they found a fault with the wiring harness for the air flow meter and fixed. Car ran beautifully after this for 3 to 4 hours before stalling again in idle and then 30 mins later, stalling on take off from the lights as mentioned.

My mate was with me and thinks but is not sure that it could be the crank angle sensor and from reading topic "Sticky: Missfire Boost.." it seems other people have had this problem and was solved by changing the crank angle sensor.

My advice, if it's only just started to happen, get it looked at quickly because it gets worse quick.

I too am having the same problem. My car is an R33 S2 GTST Automatic. It has been stalling while idling at the lights and in some cases takes a while to start after stalling. I have also noticed revs dropping significantly while driving and the accellerator feeling sticky when this happens. Stalled as i was taking off from the lights last night.

Car has been with the mechanics twice who have still not figured out the problem. First time in, they changed the oxy sensor which made no difference at all, 2nd time in they found a fault with the wiring harness for the air flow meter and fixed. Car ran beautifully after this for 3 to 4 hours before stalling again in idle and then 30 mins later, stalling on take off from the lights as mentioned.

My mate was with me and thinks but is not sure that it could be the crank angle sensor and from reading topic "Sticky: Missfire Boost.." it seems other people have had this problem and was solved by changing the crank angle sensor.

My advice, if it's only just started to happen, get it looked at quickly because it gets worse quick.

i'd change air flow meters over!!

LOL an engine will run without an oxygen sensor signal (though not as economically) so there is no way that would fix a stalling problem.

A missfire is not the same as what your saying you have. So i wouldnt go on anything said in the missfire thread. A common oversight people seem to have is if they have the same symptoms as another person thay automatically think its the same fault! Never assume this as 90% of the time it wont help you.

Deren

LOL an engine will run without an oxygen sensor signal (though not as economically) so there is no way that would fix a stalling problem.

A missfire is not the same as what your saying you have. So i wouldnt go on anything said in the missfire thread. A common oversight people seem to have is if they have the same symptoms as another person thay automatically think its the same fault! Never assume this as 90% of the time it wont help you.

Deren

Car was originally missfiring as well and revs dropping significantly while in motion. Now I just need to work on the stalling problem. I am also running .95 - 1.02 bar. I will check the coils but I would be very appreciative if anyone has any ideas.

Thanks guys! Changed airflow meters over and so far running like a dream and better than before. I had taken this car to the mechanics 3 times before they finally said it was the AFM.

I do not recommend anyone going to Sumo Performance in Nunawading, Vic (Kamikaze's mechanics) as they had the car for over 4 weeks and couldn't nail the problem. I posted my problem here and got a response same day which was accurate and correct. Thanks again to all.

Hi everybody, thanks for the help. i took the plug out of my afm, resoldered it and car goes like a dream. I too thought it was the crank angle sensor, but had the same symptoms of stalling and funny idle. I replaced all the coils and plugs but it would just cut all power for a few seconds and then come good again. instead of changing the afm, pull the plug off, unscrew the plug body on the afm and prise off the top cover. resolder the 5? joints and reglue on top cover and screw housing back in, worked fine for me and cost nuthin.

Thanks.

Hi everybody, thanks for the help. i took the plug out of my afm, resoldered it and car goes like a dream. I too thought it was the crank angle sensor, but had the same symptoms of stalling and funny idle. I replaced all the coils and plugs but it would just cut all power for a few seconds and then come good again. instead of changing the afm, pull the plug off, unscrew the plug body on the afm and prise off the top cover. resolder the 5? joints and reglue on top cover and screw housing back in, worked fine for me and cost nuthin.

Thanks.

Sounds like we may have had very similar problems. My wiring harness had already been fixed, plugged my AFM into another car and found it to be no good.

I found through a bit of searching on sau that cars with pods seem to have the afm break quite frequently due to vibration. when i removed my plug, the solder joints were not even joining, so much so that i just pulled the plug out of the afm. Its a bit fiddly to get that silicon off the afm, but its cheap and easy. ive since realised that is why my car has been running horribly for months. If you do a search on air flow meters you will turn up something helpful.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...