Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25de Dream Engine

Hella Flush

By Hella Flush,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

sil25 Explorer

sil25

Posted
Posted

not saying you don't get advantages but there are much easier and cheaper ways to go about getting that extra response.

once those things have been done for sure look into it.

sorry to say lads but machineing and shimming buckets taking alot longer than they thought due to the increased lift. they a bit worried about bending valve shafts with the increased duration combined with vvt.

after a big weekend head will be back to me on monday, fingers crossed.

for anyone in the know what is a resonable price for a cam belt and a new set of bearings.

since the motor is apart anyway it makes sense to hit it all now.

sil25 Explorer

sil25

Posted
Posted

obviously when you start running that sort of compression things wear alot faster if you don't do it right. thats why i've spent so much time on the head to get it right which left no money to balence the bottom end. with that in mind red line will probably be about 7500. if i can find a descent harmonic balancer i might stretch it out to 8000.

everything that i've done to date have been at a tune length. paid through the ass for tune length custom extractors. cams that have power band that line up with that and a port job that reflects that as well.

basically that means that it won't be the highest total hp i could have gotten but it will be the hardest accelerating and constatly be in power band when you drive it right.

I haven't seen an rb25 built to this extent and this quality so im interested to see what sort of power i get. i know that some of the boys here have ported rb30de's but lifting and machining buckets angel cutting all round and high compression to my knowledge hasn't been done.

if someone has seen this and can give me an idea of power to expect pleae let me no.

NA_R33 Grand Master

NA_R33

Posted
Posted

Sounds awesome mate cant wait for the results.

Performance Wholesales at slacks creek here in brissy sell speced up balancers for GTR's... pretty sure that it would be compatible, probably worth a look into.

sil25 Explorer

sil25

Posted
Posted

yeah do you know what sort of price there talking?

not sure if it will be worth it at this stage. for longevity of the motor it probably is but outright speed i don't know it would be that benificial?

just got short shifter in and fitted it feels pretty nice. keen to see how she runs.

flywheel is now machined up and ready to go in. total weight 4.2kg. bit worried bout how she'll be driving around on the street but im sure once i learn how it feels it will be fine.

just checked up on head and its looking good for monday which means head goes on 20th tuned on the 23rd.

sil25 Explorer

sil25

Posted
Posted

the exit runners on the head how important are they once you have a good set of pipes?

im tempted to tell the guy grind them out but not sure if its going to kill flow rather than help it.

has anyone here removed them and what sort of results did you see?

sil25 Explorer

sil25

Posted
Posted

hell no thats just crazy. after market style all the way. started at 4.8kg just took bits and pieces out and balenced it with new clutch.

all the added power with such light weight fly clutch combo the short tail shaft of the sil big lsd and big tyres i can see my gearbox going boom if im not to careful.

sil25 Explorer

sil25

Posted
Posted

sorry to disapoint boys but will be a few more days before engine is back together having trouble sourcing good quality idler bearing.

exit runners still causing concern with the flowbench readings.

looking to be back together and on the road by wed next week.

sil25 Explorer

sil25

Posted
Posted

i looked into because it looked pretty good but the only real gains you get are in your air intake because they just can't do it anywhere else. ie your inlet manifold. so you still have to get a good porting job anyway. when i sent my head down i paid to get the inlet cleaned up anyway so any gains that extrusion honing would have gotten me i'll get, and then some.

i also wanted my inlet split to get more flow again which again you need to get done at a good porting shop.

if anyone has any more ideas like this please let me no. still keen to pick up any extra power i can and still a few days left to do so.

BADR33 Collaborator

BADR33

Posted
Posted

twin throttle bodys? its been done on a couple of the rb30des on here. im just starting on it now.

or have you got somthing else planned? i cant quite rember now.

if you really wanted to try somthing totaly differnt. what about increasing the size of the intake runners? im not sure if that would be a gain or a loss. but its somthing i havnt heard about...

also what about a thin copper head gasket? to increas compression even more

oh and mb to avoid alot of blow by some oil restrictors? or mb thats just what you need for rb30s... i know i need some...

monster Contributor

monster

Posted
Posted

Contact your local CBC Bearings, they do a kit which replaces your seals/idler/tensioner/belt at a great price, plus all the stuff they use is genuine... just not in 'nissan' boxes

I know, because I'm a Rep for them :/

Kit will set you back around the $250 mark (with racing belt)

sil25 Explorer

sil25

Posted
Posted

damn monster your like a few days to late. grabbed a new racing belt the other day and idler bearing is on the way but thanks i'll keep that in mind, im sure i'll be building again in the not to distant future.

as for twin throttle bodies no have no plans as such, yet. seeing how this package goes then moving onto a twin throttle setup if i feel the need.

the inlet runners beind made larger was on the books but this will only be done if it shows up on the flow bench that we'll see gains. it still being played with and little things being changed and the gains are really starting to pile up.

as for the copper head gasket we've worked out all the comprension ratings to give her as much as she can handle with just a normal head gasket. bearing in mind that if an rb30 bottom end was to go on the compresion would increase again.

whats mb? :)

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • Kinkstaah
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • soviet_merlin
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...