Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Aggreed, any competant workshop can work on your skyline. If its just maintenance your after there is no problem taking it to a reputable general service centre. if there is something you want them to take extra notice of or are unsure they will be familiar with, then make a note of it to them.

By the way, to the guy that said dont let an apprentice work on your car...Im an apprentice and if you have seen my thread you will know im currently rebuilding my GTR ground up!

Aggreed, any competant workshop can work on your skyline. If its just maintenance your after there is no problem taking it to a reputable general service centre. if there is something you want them to take extra notice of or are unsure they will be familiar with, then make a note of it to them.

By the way, to the guy that said dont let an apprentice work on your car...Im an apprentice and if you have seen my thread you will know im currently rebuilding my GTR ground up!

lolz since ur in brisbane ... mind putting my engine back together for me mate :)?

i dont have a problem with an apprentice working on my car just as long as they are supervised as all apprentices should be. speaking as a qualified trademan as i used to be an apprentice and i have an apprentice under me at work. apprentices can be good workers, with the right mind for the job and the right qualified people working above them.

if you dont like the idea of an apprentice working on your car, talk to the mechanic. simply request that the most experienced person do the job

Godzilla32,

You are an exception. Generally speaking apprentices are crapo and I sure as hell know I wouldn't want one working on mine. :huh:

But no one works on mine anyway. lol I do. :(

Yeah im the same, im not liking the idea of having to hand over my rebuilt car to a workshop to tune it one day. Was kinda hoping to strike up a friendship with someone who can that perhaps i could help?!?

lolz since ur in brisbane ... mind putting my engine back together for me mate :huh:?

Hehe, sure thing mate, i'll at least lend you a hand. Give me a call.

Deren

Why the n1 water pump, do you do track days?Still no timing belt tensioner stud?Unless you have experience with a particular mechanic, there is little way of knowing what sort of job that is going to be done, all mechanics have things stuff up, whether its their fault or not, and theres plenty of apprentices who can kick a tradesman up the arse. When i was a second year apprentice, i was asked by two qualified mech's if i could put the ignition leads on their cars after doing a head gasket as they didn't know how to figure out which way they went, and one of them topped his class at tech, i find a good percentage of dealership mechanics have poor ability, but i dont have to trust my car to anyone.

Hey Everyone,

I have decided not to go to Ultratune...found a quite reputable performance shop with a dyno (still cant believe it) here on the Sunshine Coast....I am spending at neat $1400 cash today on the below items...plus they a tuning it on a dyno (excited), my very first one....

Timing Belt & Bearings

Belt tensioner Pulley

Idler pulley

Spark Plugs

Ancillary belts (alternator, water pump and the like)

Auto Transmission Fluid

Nissan N1 water pump

Check Engine Mounts

Radiator Flush

Cam Seals

Crank Seal

Break Fluid

Power Steering Fluid

Injector Clean

Check Hoses

Chuck her on the Dyno.............>_<

Total = $1400 neat...may be a little less when i go to pay....

Cant wait to have it running better again.

Christian

A lot of the items you are having done can be done by you too. A radiator flush for example is a 30 minute job in the garage (even the brake fluid change isnt that hard, just takes two people to do the good old pedal pumping :happy: ). Personally I would do those sorts of things myself, and then take it to a GTR expert to do the major things like the pulleys, injector clean, and belts.

No i dont trust them, i had a mate who took his commodore there and they were full of it.

Talk to 3ltr his name is Dan, from the QLD site.

Put this info in a QLD post and he will reply.

Edited by subzeroR33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...