Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

The other day when i was pressing the MODE button on the Air Con it stopped changing from vent to vent and is now stuck on the Windsheild Vent. I want to get the front Vents working again. Does anyone know how to fix this? Is there a vacuum line which could of come loose? or is it electrical?

Thanks :)

ive had the same issue with my gtr for ages. while its off the road im gonna see if i can find out what it is. apparently there is a control box (electrical) somewhere that controls the vents. this sometimes fails. thats all i know so far.

has anybody had this issue or knows what the problem is? im driving an r32gtr

Take all the surround bollocks off from around the back of the A/C, when you press the button to change vents you will see the servo move which controls it. See if the pin holding it to the vent arm is broken or has popped out, happens a fair bit on 32's especially for the vent that controls the hot air from the heater box.

Take all the surround bollocks off from around the back of the A/C, when you press the button to change vents you will see the servo move which controls it. See if the pin holding it to the vent arm is broken or has popped out, happens a fair bit on 32's especially for the vent that controls the hot air from the heater box.

this sounds like a great idea. ill try that if what i have in mind doesnt work.

i finally got the vent check (step 3) to work as it was only coming up with '3' instead of a '30' number. like '31 32 33 34 35 36"

when i ran it, all of these numbers came up flashing and changed from number to number, then stopped back on '3'

from what i can understand, this could either be that every actuator is faulty, or the 'mode door actuator' is.

pretty strong feeling that ALL of my actuators wouldnt fail in one go so i reckon its the mode door actuator.

let me see if i can find this mode door actuator...

anybody know its whereabouts or have a photo of it?

r32matt, do you have a copy of the workshop manual? its got a diagnostics part in the heater section. the best way to figure out your problem is to run that fully. pm me if you dont have it.

sorry for hijacking your thread...

I was about to post up with the same problem. I havnt got the climate control in mine, mines just the old crap slide switch thing.. I cant close of my external vents or change where my vents flow the air either, when i push the buttons i cant hear the little motor sound any more so ill be pulling mine out tonight to see if what 666dan said is correct or not,, i hope so.. its means i cant really use my aircon because i cant close of my fresh air vents therefore it dont realy get cold... its poo...

cheers

21 is the outside air sensor. 25 is the sunload sensor.

the sunload sensor will always give you an error code unless its in full sunlight.

the pic that i posted in this thread IS the mode door actuator. it controls the vents (head, feet, half way and demist/window)

it is not repairable....

a new one from nissan is gonna be around the $200 mark and they want full payment before they will order it from japan. so its still gonna be a 10 day wait before it shows after you've paid for it.

i did find one at a wrecker though and they want $80 for it.

if my car was working and i didnt need to save for my rebuild, i would have replaced it by now. and then i could tell you if it worked or not....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dear folks My family members have 4 different cars : Triton 2015 and Corolla 2011 and Mazda3 2012 and Hyundai Elantra 2014 Looking to buy engine oil funnel spill free What I found are are below  https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0BBTTJNKX?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image&th=1 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/145553221359?srsltid=AfmBOoqYBU6Ptw0LU_bAp_k67U3qkF97HHvePkA7iHZw8vUmiwoIRaRr https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09X23TCS5?th=1 Is there a funnel with attachment that fits most cars ? Don't mind to spend for a decent quality  Thx  
    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
×
×
  • Create New...