Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 380
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

He runs Bridgestones through his fleet vehicles and the Dunlops have always been more expensive..............

I don't get it. If you are doing Targa, even the most expensive tyres around are your cheapest expense. I have no idea why people are running tyres based on price. I don't think the boys are blaming tyres for their bungee jump, but if it was a consideration I see a lot more than $1600 in damage... Hope the bug has bitten enough to get you back. A reshell will cost a fair bit of time, but thats about all...

Noticed you snuck in a pick Kel... thank you

TT

Edited by Targa Tom

no problems at all with the brakes, and they take a hammering on the tight stages 100->50, 100->50, repeat 30 times lol. Had the wrong pads on the first day and they got chewed up, changed to the race compound after that and they were great. Will take them off and have a proper look in the next week or 2.

I don't get it. If you are doing Targa, even the most expensive tyres around are your cheapest expense. I have no idea why people are running tyres based on price. I don't think the boys are blaming tyres for their bungee jump, but if it was a consideration I see a lot more than $1600 in damage... Hope the bug has bitten enough to get you back. A reshell will cost a fair bit of time, but thats about all...

Noticed you snuck in a pick Kel... thank you

TT

There for a good while the Dunlop's (D01J sorter days) were more expensive than the Bridgestone's (RE520/RE540) for little to no gain and with brand loyalty I guess people don't know how much of gain can be seen in recent release tyres until they try them.

As we all know, price doesn't always equal performance alone - the P-Zero Corsa would have to be one of the hardest, nastiest tyres I've used and they are also one of the most expensive... lets not even mention Advans!

I guess the moral of the story is to try as many tyres as you can on the car you will be using them on (and tune your suspension and pressures accordingly) and make a personal choice or be lead by people you trust.

you would have to say it looks like the roll cage saves 2 lives. it looks like some very hard impacts on the roof. send a thank you note to the dude that welded the roll cage!

such a shame, but that's tarmac rally for you. >_<

Just a quick note to ask who's doing what upcoming events. I may jump in with Catchy in his Evo IV for Rally of Burnie (he won it last year so the pressure will be on!).

Then it's back into the 34 for Buller which I haven't done before so am lookin forward to it! :ninja:

For those who've done Buller, do you reckon there's much use in screwing up some power given we're not held back by Targa type rules?

Just a quick note to ask who's doing what upcoming events. I may jump in with Catchy in his Evo IV for Rally of Burnie (he won it last year so the pressure will be on!).

Then it's back into the 34 for Buller which I haven't done before so am lookin forward to it! :)

For those who've done Buller, do you reckon there's much use in screwing up some power given we're not held back by Targa type rules?

Don't know about the HP race up Buller, but we will be at Burnie I reckon... Just waiting to see what they have planned for it. Lots of Rumours... Burnie to be biased toward ARC Tarmac round and Rally Tas to be a stick with the Classic market.

Either way the 3 of the best 4 Tarmac events are in Tassie, so we are spoiled ATM

TT

We were talking to Brian Tarratt, and he said that some GT-R's were running Nismo option parts, as when you bought a GT-R, you could get anything from the Nismo catalouge fitted and warrentied as an option part.

I don't know if R32's had the option for 18's, but I know that one of the R33's were running Nismo 18" wheels amoungst other things.

Maybe jump back in the Ute for Burnie.

While im here can anyone explain to me why you can run 18s on a 32 GTR?

I am not sure, but told Holywood to check the tyre regs closely... I can't understand anone running 18's because it limits your tyre choices... 32's had 16 x 8 std and therfore could run maybe 17s Benno can probabley help us here.

Again, one thing that Targa does teach you is how to read regs and research in a way that suits your cause.

TT

Yeah we'll be back for the lake mountain and buller sprints for sure, can't wait.

With the gtrs, the n1 had 17x8 wheels (standard only was 16x8). Since the Nismo options were allowed that opened up 17x9 or 18x8 wheels - I think it was for this year only. Steve from Just Jap could confirm we took his advice on this one.

17x8 seemed fine to me, fitted over the brakes and I could afford the tyres, they get a lot more expensive and hard to get sizes in 18s.

Nismo optioned a host of rims up to 18x10 for various GTR models, but not for all models.

eg R33 GTR can run standard 17x9 or up to 18x10 in the case of Dave Ayers this year who was the only wearing the proper Nismo rims. There is not compete freedom as the size you run must be listed and published by Nismo so in the case of the R32 GTR you could run a 16x8 if its a base model, 17x8 if its a V-Spec/V-Spec II or N1, or if you drawn on options 17x9 as Thatch did, or up to a max 18x9 as Tony did. No 18x10 was listed for R32 GTR. I've got a list in the office if anyone wants to know more.

Previously the rules were you must run the rim size as fitted standard, and thats still the case, but if there is a listed option from time of sale then you can drawn on it.

Rim options will remain a freedom for some time to come, but engine and suspension options particually have been limited under the latest revise of the regulations and components like 80mm exhausts and thicker radiators where given grace this year only as the revised technical regulations were only released the Friday before this years Targa.

Hope this helps...

Edited by t01-100
Nismo optioned a host of rims up to 18x10 for various GTR models, but not for all models.

eg R33 GTR can run standard 17x9 or up to 18x10 in the case of Dave Ayers this year who was the only wearing the proper Nismo rims. There is not compete freedom as the size you run must be listed and published by Nismo so in the case of the R32 GTR you could run a 16x8 if its a base model, 17x8 if its a V-Spec/V-Spec II or N1, or if you drawn on options 17x9 as Thatch did, or up to a max 18x9 as Tony did. No 18x10 was listed for R32 GTR. I've got a list in the office if anyone wants to know more.

Previously the rules were you must run the rim size as fitted standard, and thats still the case, but if there is a listed option from time of sale then you can drawn on it.

Rim options will remain a freedom for some time to come, but engine and suspension options particually have been limited under the latest revise of the regulations and components like 80mm exhausts and thicker radiators where given grace this year only as the revised technical regulations were only released the Friday before this years Targa.

Hope this helps...

Is there anything at all for S15's in the nismo catalog?

I like the picutre with my legs hanging out. The dukes of hazzard made it look so easy!

As to tyres, as Duncan said, price does not always equal value or performance, and you really need the right tyres for the event you are doing. Same applies to compound. I'm not blaming the tyres (well not totally anyway) and really can't fault the bridgestones in the dry, they were good when they got some heat in them, but when 4 days old and cold, they absolutely suck in the wet.

We didn't have bad traction, they just let go completely without warning, and we were only doing a very low speed 40-50km/hr max. Those who saw us go over the bridge will testify that we weren't pushing hard.

Mark

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...