Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all

i got a letter in my letter box the other day, hand writen, with an email with "would you be interested in having your car fetured in a new car magzine. the mag is called raceNbounce or some shit

now i emailed em providing no information what so ever, im suspect that it is a scam to steal my car but you never know

anyone else herd of this exam or had a similar experience?

i dont know why they would want my car its just a r34 GTT with wheels and an exhaust basically. this is why i am suspect.

anyway comments please?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/150932-scam-or-new-magazine/
Share on other sites

sounds dodgey as

hope you lock your car up nicely at night

you think if they were legit, they would post some thing .. on some forum.. some where.. announcing themselves as a new mag.. but a google search brings back nothing for racenbounce .

also whats the domain for the email address?

@hotmail.com? or some thing similar?

the name was RaceNbounce magazine

they emailed me back asking for some photos of my car for readers rides since its not high modded. but im not going to send any sounds to me like they want to know exactly what is in my car and how do boost it.

the address is [email protected] so just a google email.

yeah i do lock my car up tight, it has a kill switch and 3 point immobiliser so no way its goin anywhere. but if they are pros nuffin can really stop them.

i got it insured for 26 600 so good luck to em haha.

this is the exact email just so ya know

"hmm, seems you got off the email too quickly. well since it doesn't have too many modifications, what we can do is you can send in a couple of high res pictures of your car, and we can put it in the inbox section of readers ride. And when you have more mods maybe we can do a feature artcile on it.

The magazine is called Race n Bounce. It's a new magazine set to be released in late January. It is QLD only and most of our first issues will be released around the Brisbane Cuty area and North , South, East and West locations. Our magazine retails at $6 which is really cheap compared to other ones on the market today.

The magazine not only features performance cars, but also I.T reviews, music, games and technology. So if your interested in sending us a few pictures of your car and what you want to do to it, than feel free to. We will chuck it in the inbox section for you. (for free :worship: )

(also if you know anyone that would be interested in advertising withn our magazine please hit em up with our email, as our prices are very cheap. thanks)

Yours sincerely,

Andrew Fabian

Owner- Race n Bounce magazine."

Edited by Jaker34

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
    • Yeah - I mean, go the other way. Smaller range. Not larger.
×
×
  • Create New...