Jump to content
SAU Community

All These Evo 3 In J-spec.....

maclarenf1
 Share

Recommended Posts

maclarenf1 Experienced

maclarenf1

Posted
Posted

I always love the Evo 3 shape and there these ones apering on j-spec that are piss cheap.....and no i dont have CAMS license.....Is there any legal loop whole that can be exploited to register one of these in QLD.....

surely there must be a way.......then i would definatly buy one.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151435-all-these-evo-3-in-j-spec/
Share on other sites
Nismo_Boy Grand Master

Nismo_Boy

Posted
Posted

That Import 101 mob have been importing “race only” cars under their own level 3 cams license. Maybe import one for race use through them, then do a VIN swap with a local GSR or something

This is of course illegal, and I’m not suggesting nor condoning this behavior and or activity.

Take the above info how ever you like, just do your research before you do it, as you don’t want to be stuck with two cars, or a car that’s of no use.

foznice Veteran

foznice

Posted
Posted

we can, but they need to be SEVS complied, which usually means stock. (providing they are on the SEVS list.. pretty sure they are)

The hardcore ones are for race rally use only, so no compliance, no road rego, no nothing....

I *heard* (so who knows really) that someone how imports a race rally car (with CAMS 3) has to sell it to someone with CAMS 3 also, but who knows if thats true.

32vspecII Mentor

32vspecII

Posted
Posted (edited)

you can not import an evo III for road use at all , they are not on the sevs list . I assume they fail because they are to close to the CC GSR turbo 4wd lancer misti brought in to australia

there used to be a loophole in victory to let you bring one in and replace a written off domestic GSR lancer with it but that has been closed

you can bring in a race only one if you have or can find someone with a cams license and then you can transfer all the running gear to a CC gsr lancer , the car is virtually identical to the evo III when you are done .

its not that difficult but domestically delivered gsrs are getting rarer and expensive so the total cost would probably almost equal an evo VI which you can bring in anyway

Edited by arkon
Kushil Abeysinghe Enthusiast

Kushil Abeysinghe

Posted
Posted
you can not import an evo III for road use at all , they are not on the sevs list . I assume they fail because they are to close to the CC GSR turbo 4wd lancer misti brought in to australia

there used to be a loophole in victory to let you bring one in and replace a written off domestic GSR lancer with it but that has been closed

you can bring in a race only one if you have or can find someone with a cams license and then you can transfer all the running gear to a CC gsr lancer , the car is virtually identical to the evo III when you are done .

its not that difficult but domestically delivered gsrs are getting rarer and expensive so the total cost would probably almost equal an evo VI which you can bring in anyway

wonder when is the 15 year rule kick in for these cars.......or is that stoped now.....

damn....the shit they make us go though to get a car........

insanity Rising Star

insanity

Posted
Posted
I *heard* (so who knows really) that someone how imports a race rally car (with CAMS 3) has to sell it to someone with CAMS 3 also, but who knows if thats true.

I was under the impression that it could be sold on to someone without a cams licence, but that doesn't mean it could then be rego'd... still for track/race use only...

insanity Rising Star

insanity

Posted
Posted
Bugger....is this true.....can anyone confirm this ?....

where have you been hiding... it was scrapped about this time last year (early Feb). Unless you had docs proving that you had purchased the car before that date... no more 15 year rule....

pre - frikkin - 89

and top quality cars that age are getting VERY hard to find

LTHLRB Grand Master

LTHLRB

Posted
Posted

shud be alright, aussie gsr, bring an evo 3 in and put EVERYTHING onto the aussie gsr, driveline interior bodykit bonnet everything. then flog the evo 3 off with all the gsr stuff on it.

maclarenf1 Experienced

maclarenf1

Posted
  • Author
Posted
shud be alright, aussie gsr, bring an evo 3 in and put EVERYTHING onto the aussie gsr, driveline interior bodykit bonnet everything. then flog the evo 3 off with all the gsr stuff on it.

yes but that defeats the whole purpose of buy one for a steal of a price....plus by the time you do the conversion, the cost will spiral like hell......and will cost more than a evo 6 or 6.5 :yes: already in AUS.... :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...