Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i've got a full house RB26 with

HKS 25/40 turbos,

full decked head intake and exhaust

HKS 700cc injectors

Nismo adjustable fuel reg

Split fire coils

Apexi camshafts 280

Apexi head gasket

SS Valves

Pistons

Rods

Crank

N1 Water + Oil pump

with front LSD

All work was done in japan, egine came across as is with car.. i've spent plenty of $$$ on detailing and extra performance bits

Came from my R32 GTR which was written off, got hit in the back..

Located in Sydney, $25K now $20K or make an offer

0433 384 056 DAYTIME

pics are posted

post-34622-1168773641.jpg

post-34622-1168773668.jpg

post-34622-1168773702.jpg

post-34622-1168773729.jpg

post-34622-1168773770.jpg

Edited by WLD_GTR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151712-full-house-rb26-turbos/
Share on other sites

Mate i understand and thanks for the heads up, But here u get the quality and reliability of full house workshop engine from japan.. also $25k is just a starter i did mention to Make An Offer, but i shall drop the asking price too.. thanks

Sorry i dont noe wat crank, rods, or pistons are in there.. but iam guessing from the apexi head gasket and camshafts that it would be all apexi.. iam not to sure on how much kms since it was built or who built it.. as i previously said that i purchased the car from japan and the motor was already in it. So as i previously said it is a complete built engine from a workshop in japan. You cant go wrong with the quality and reliability from a japanese workshop. Also with the HKS 25/40 turbos already bolted on. No it is not an N1 block

Edited by WLD_GTR

Japanese workshops are just like Aussie ones...there are good and bad...for all you know it could be a STD bottom end with bolt on's done on the grass under a tarp beside his lean-to. Some REAL facts and information about the product your selling would be a good start. 2540 turbo's have been out of production for a few years now and yours look a bit tired. It could have been built more than 5 years ago and possibly has plenty of klms on it. A realistic price would be a good start too....possibly even less than half your current price may find you a buyer.

  • 1 month later...
ill offer u $6000 IF it passes compression? you can keep the turbos...... and ill come pickup today?

That's a great offer. I'd consider taking it if I was you.

My mates R32 GTR made 450 kw at all 4 on the Autosalon dyno with a big single. :rofl: He thought it had a built bottom end even a storker. Some time later the engine spun a bearing from cracking a oil pump.

He was devstated and happy at the same time finally opening his engine and seeing the bottom end was totally standard. But he was happy to have produced 750-800bhp with standard pistons and rods. :)

Just shows what an amazing CRD tune can do :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hooley Dooley these things have some history! If i sell them they will need a certificate of providence to prove they have been in the hands of verified RB20 royalty! They have been stored in a plastic tub, away from sunlight and moisture. They are in mint condition. And they will stay that way, as i have sprung the money for a set of shockworks coilovers. I'm just working on getting them in at the moment, after rebushing the rear of the car, and while the subframe was out i welded in the GKtech reinforcement bracing as well.  They will get a workout at Ararat King of The Hill in November. I ran 48s on the short course there a few months ago, and i am hoping with new bushes and shocks in the rear i can launch a bit harder. There was a fair bit of axle tramp when i tried too hard off the line. a few of the corners had dips mid way which also made the car feel a bit unsettled, hopefully this will help there too.   
    • Food for thought, the stock oil filter thread is a 3/4-16 UNF, which has an ID of about 10 to 12mm (according to ChatGPT lol). Now compare than to an 10AN, which has an ID of about 14mm (Raceworks is 14.2mm, Speed flow is 14.27mm).  
    • Yep, totally get that. However hooking in for Generator back up is only a few hundred bucks for the wiring. You could put a couple of those in (for different circuits explicitly) and run a couple of baby generators. Bonus, you can balance them across different circuits, and now have backups in your backup. I'm looking at buying places that won't even have water etc, and I don't mind the idea of getting off the electric grid either, even with everything you've said. This country already has enough power outages that even the mains grid isn't that reliable anymore. I do agree though on spending a bit more to get better gear, and to add some extra redundancy in to the system too.
    • You can set hard reserves on your battery system, and it can't be discharged past that.  
    • That sounds like an excellent idea. But total self-sufficiency means exactly that. You have no-one else to blame when your system faults out and you have no power for a week or two while it gets fixed. You'd have to go the whole hog and get a diesel genny and all the switchover gear, to get you through such times. And, despite the fact that over 20 years, my system has been pretty reliable**, I have seen so many inverter explosions (or less dramatic deaths), panel and roof JB fires, and so on, over that time, to know that the stuff is the same as any other bulk Chinese manufactured stuff. The failure rate is well above zero - both on the equipment and on behalf of the meth addled installation labour force. And then..... warranty and means of redress against the supplier you bought the gear from. Best I can tell is that only a handful of solar companies are still around within 5 years of starting their advertising pitch. They disappear and phoenix like crazy. So, as per 1st paragraph, I suspect the only way to is go balls deep and spend maybe 2-3 times as much as you might think, so that you have every base covered. Plus, know and understand your gear intimately, so you can diagnose problems, sort them out yourself, etc, etc. Plus, probably have to consider upgrading various parts as the years pass, to maintain compatibility with newer stuff, performance and reliability, etc, etc. Whereas, remaining attached to the grid has an ongoing cost that keeps going up even if you use bugger all power from it. But it does provide the fallback in case of the worst case with your own gear. You either pay up front or as you go, I suspect.
×
×
  • Create New...