Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I haven't found anyone who's even mentioned it before but I'm curios... can you put the 1UZ into a toyota MR2?

The only barriers I could think of are:

1) will it fit in the bay?

2) can it be mated to the std gear-box / what gear-box would you be able to use?

quick, simple question but i'd be interested in some detailed answers... there's got to be a reason no-one's done it i suppose but i'd like to know why.

Cheers,

Dave.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151980-toyota-tech-heads/
Share on other sites

Why would you put a V6 camry motor in a MR2 stupid yanks

remember the Camry ads from the late 90's when the Camry accellerated faster than the AU XR6 Falcons? imagine what it could do in a 1000kg car! Here's a link to a wbsite dedicated to the conversion

http://www.v6mr2.com/

Here's a Mk1 MR2 with a supercharged 3.8 V6 GM Motor (similar to our VS-VY motor)

http://www.djedwhite.com/p/photo.php?dir=1200/mr2

how much cash do u have? only a mr2 gear box will work because mr2 is toyotas only mid mount engine car. u can get massive powerfigures out of 3sgtes any way. there was a 600 ps one in HPI a while ago

Not that much :yes: ha ha!

no, the reasoning behind the thought was simply to have a naturally aspirated engine that had the brute force without all the modifications... you could run the 1UZ in a car that light in std trim and have very satisfying results.

Ultimately, around 3~400HP at the flywheel would be the goal but i don't want to have to spend 10's of thousands of dollars to get such a low output (not that that's a low figure for that engine but i can't justify in my mind, the cost of that kind of figure).

opinions?

yoshimitsu9: was thinking you could mate up a porsche box or something but again... costs start to get a lil stupid.

So, basically, what people are saying is that the limitation is the space in the engine bay?

you want 400 flywheel horspower, and you think it will be cheaper to do an engine swap and then tune it for power?

movey vs performance, the 3S will probly be better than the V8, with the added bonus of not performing an engine swap/chopping the chassis/retarded weight balance of a V8 over the rear wheels.

edit - i dont get it, did you want to specifically keep the car N/A?

Edited by VB-
you want 400 flywheel horspower, and you think it will be cheaper to do an engine swap and then tune it for power?

movey vs performance, the 3S will probly be better than the V8, with the added bonus of not performing an engine swap/chopping the chassis/retarded weight balance of a V8 over the rear wheels.

edit - i dont get it, did you want to specifically keep the car N/A?

sorry, poor explanation on my behalf.

if i where to keep the 3s-gte, i'd like around 400 hp at the fly but i thought, with the v8... standard power would be more than enough in a car that light (working on a power to weight plus the fact that the displacement etc in the 1uz would make a pretty meaty ride in an mr2)

also, if i went the v8, i could stick with an N/A option which (IMO) would be better maintenance and general expense wise. where as, staying with the std engine... i'd be upping boost, frequent oil changes, risk of blown turbo's, etc etc... you know what i mean?

basically, i think it'd be nicer to have roughly the same power out of a standard N/A engine than out of a modified / std turbo one.

that make sense?

there's also the problem of keeping an mr2 engine intake temps cool because of the set-up they have (intercooler replacements etc are limited) so, upping the hp on a turbo engine (assuming that's a result of more boost etc) brings concerns of "can i keep it cool enough not to go bang?" lol!

Edited by DJ984

so... ok, here's another question to throw out there.

what's the quickers / cheapest / easiest way to get good power out of the mr2 (let's say a goal of 300 hp at the fly) whilst not raising concerns to things like intake temps etc.

whether that be drop in the v6 or tweak a few things in the std engine...

what's your opinions?

I don't want to fk around with modifying chassis and getting stupid amounts of engineering etc etc.

anyone know where to get a 3s-gte crate engine? like the tomei nissan engines you can buy?

and opinions on whether a better option would be an sr20det... keeping in mind the cooling issue

Edited by DJ984

easiest way to get the power your wanting is by tuning the 3S-GTE, and it will be the cheapest by far. supposedly the stock bottom end is one of the weak links to over come, but shouldnt be a problem with 300hp at the fly.

as for cooling, there are a few options. the one i would be looking at personally, is a liquid to air exchanger. if you've seen the video of the GTTT, you'll know they can work well, try to emulate that system, although price will be a bit of an issue here, overall it will still be far cheaper IMO. even still, there should be other water-air set up's for MR2's.

my advice now is to look to jap tuning. i've seen a few MR2's in the tens, on street tires, look there for advice.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi GTSBoy, Excuse my ignorance but what does a "Bad" Knee point mean ? 
    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
×
×
  • Create New...