Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I haven't found anyone who's even mentioned it before but I'm curios... can you put the 1UZ into a toyota MR2?

The only barriers I could think of are:

1) will it fit in the bay?

2) can it be mated to the std gear-box / what gear-box would you be able to use?

quick, simple question but i'd be interested in some detailed answers... there's got to be a reason no-one's done it i suppose but i'd like to know why.

Cheers,

Dave.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151980-toyota-tech-heads/
Share on other sites

Why would you put a V6 camry motor in a MR2 stupid yanks

remember the Camry ads from the late 90's when the Camry accellerated faster than the AU XR6 Falcons? imagine what it could do in a 1000kg car! Here's a link to a wbsite dedicated to the conversion

http://www.v6mr2.com/

Here's a Mk1 MR2 with a supercharged 3.8 V6 GM Motor (similar to our VS-VY motor)

http://www.djedwhite.com/p/photo.php?dir=1200/mr2

how much cash do u have? only a mr2 gear box will work because mr2 is toyotas only mid mount engine car. u can get massive powerfigures out of 3sgtes any way. there was a 600 ps one in HPI a while ago

Not that much :yes: ha ha!

no, the reasoning behind the thought was simply to have a naturally aspirated engine that had the brute force without all the modifications... you could run the 1UZ in a car that light in std trim and have very satisfying results.

Ultimately, around 3~400HP at the flywheel would be the goal but i don't want to have to spend 10's of thousands of dollars to get such a low output (not that that's a low figure for that engine but i can't justify in my mind, the cost of that kind of figure).

opinions?

yoshimitsu9: was thinking you could mate up a porsche box or something but again... costs start to get a lil stupid.

So, basically, what people are saying is that the limitation is the space in the engine bay?

you want 400 flywheel horspower, and you think it will be cheaper to do an engine swap and then tune it for power?

movey vs performance, the 3S will probly be better than the V8, with the added bonus of not performing an engine swap/chopping the chassis/retarded weight balance of a V8 over the rear wheels.

edit - i dont get it, did you want to specifically keep the car N/A?

Edited by VB-
you want 400 flywheel horspower, and you think it will be cheaper to do an engine swap and then tune it for power?

movey vs performance, the 3S will probly be better than the V8, with the added bonus of not performing an engine swap/chopping the chassis/retarded weight balance of a V8 over the rear wheels.

edit - i dont get it, did you want to specifically keep the car N/A?

sorry, poor explanation on my behalf.

if i where to keep the 3s-gte, i'd like around 400 hp at the fly but i thought, with the v8... standard power would be more than enough in a car that light (working on a power to weight plus the fact that the displacement etc in the 1uz would make a pretty meaty ride in an mr2)

also, if i went the v8, i could stick with an N/A option which (IMO) would be better maintenance and general expense wise. where as, staying with the std engine... i'd be upping boost, frequent oil changes, risk of blown turbo's, etc etc... you know what i mean?

basically, i think it'd be nicer to have roughly the same power out of a standard N/A engine than out of a modified / std turbo one.

that make sense?

there's also the problem of keeping an mr2 engine intake temps cool because of the set-up they have (intercooler replacements etc are limited) so, upping the hp on a turbo engine (assuming that's a result of more boost etc) brings concerns of "can i keep it cool enough not to go bang?" lol!

Edited by DJ984

so... ok, here's another question to throw out there.

what's the quickers / cheapest / easiest way to get good power out of the mr2 (let's say a goal of 300 hp at the fly) whilst not raising concerns to things like intake temps etc.

whether that be drop in the v6 or tweak a few things in the std engine...

what's your opinions?

I don't want to fk around with modifying chassis and getting stupid amounts of engineering etc etc.

anyone know where to get a 3s-gte crate engine? like the tomei nissan engines you can buy?

and opinions on whether a better option would be an sr20det... keeping in mind the cooling issue

Edited by DJ984

easiest way to get the power your wanting is by tuning the 3S-GTE, and it will be the cheapest by far. supposedly the stock bottom end is one of the weak links to over come, but shouldnt be a problem with 300hp at the fly.

as for cooling, there are a few options. the one i would be looking at personally, is a liquid to air exchanger. if you've seen the video of the GTTT, you'll know they can work well, try to emulate that system, although price will be a bit of an issue here, overall it will still be far cheaper IMO. even still, there should be other water-air set up's for MR2's.

my advice now is to look to jap tuning. i've seen a few MR2's in the tens, on street tires, look there for advice.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...