Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

as the topic says, ive done the 'basic' mods to my stock GTR

but not sure where to approach next?

so far;

XSpower dumps and front

HKS catback

HKS cam gears (in/ex plus HKS belt)

Apexi power intake pods

Apexi pfc

Apexi EBC

Nismo twin plate clutch

so where to go next? (im aiming near 300rwkw on stock turbo)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152012-so-what-to-mod-next/
Share on other sites

stock turbo :yes: don't think so

Yep.

300rwkw + stock turbos = no sale.

250rwkw, no problem. 300rwkw is way off the achieveable.

If you want 300rwkw, its a GT-SS or Garrett Equivs in a turbo change which worst case is going to cost 5k installed/tuned

HKS 2530s? yummy

Those alone (with injectors and AFM's) will give you around 325kw's @ 19psi with your current set-up. If you also add some poncams you'll increase that slightly but increase your mid-range heaps.

Then once you get bored with that you can build your bottom end and go for 360+ no problems.

If you think 300 is going to keep you happy for ever then the GT-SS or 2860-7's or R34 N1's are your best option. But you won't really get much past 260 on the stock turbo's.

I think the next mod should be to give me the car =) I'll even give you my 33 GTR V-Spec as a gesture of good will. Best mod EVER ^_^

For me...

As stated, 300 won't happen on stock turbo's safely if at all but you have plenty of options and if you can afford a 34 GTR then you'll have no worries throwing a few K at the turbo setup to get you the 300rwkw's you're after. As was also pointed out, you might need to consider exactly what power you have in mind as a bottom end build may also be required if you can see yourself wanting more than 350kw's+

Be sure to keep us posted =D

as the topic says, ive done the 'basic' mods to my stock GTR

but not sure where to approach next?

..................................

so where to go next? (im aiming near 300rwkw on stock turbo)

What are you wanting to use the power for? Thats going to have a huge bearing on what people will recommend.

Is it for the track?,

for the strip?

for a fast road car?

for a relaxed cruiser? ( :yes: well maybe not)

As they said on top gear on Monday (when the Porsche 911 handed a beating to 2 far more powerful cars), its how you put the power down (and where it is in the curve) that really matters :) .

Ned

XSpower dumps and front

HKS catback

HKS cam gears (in/ex plus HKS belt)

Apexi power intake pods

Apexi pfc

Apexi EBC

Nismo twin plate clutch

so where to go next? (im aiming near 300rwkw on stock turbo)

I have similar mods to you (minus clutch) on my 32GTR and have 34GTR turbos. Currently 240rwkw @ 15psi. I have a few more mods planned before I hit turbos (GT-SS or N1's for 300-320rwkw), I spose I can 'hope' for 250kw with these turbos, maybe.

Tune it for 250, then see if its worth spending the extra money getting it to 300. Most people are content with 250 once they get it.
I have similar mods to you (minus clutch) on my 32GTR and have 34GTR turbos. Currently 240rwkw @ 15psi. I have a few more mods planned before I hit turbos (GT-SS or N1's for 300-320rwkw), I spose I can 'hope' for 250kw with these turbos, maybe.

yup, thats what i have i mind

im in the process of fitting the parts now

whack in the pfc & get it tuned, hopefully i'll make the 250rwkw mark

and will enjoy it for a lil bit till I get bored of the power, then put more $ to push for the 300

but will keep u guys posted

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...