Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a stock car and as you may or may not know the turbo went bye bye recently due to or not due to a dump pipe installation that may have or may have not gone pear shaped when they were fiddling around my turbos holes... lol...

Anyway I was going to order a GT3040 the other day when I realised I dont want a lag monster of a car. So my descision is now a GT30R.

I was going to order the GT30R yesterday when I realised it just wasnt that simple. Garrett have a few flavours of the GT30 series...

GT30

GT3071R - 700382-3

GT3071R - 700382-20

GT3076R - 700382-12

I have no idea which one to order, is anyone able to tell me from the spec sheets located:

Turbo by Garrett

Under Medium section, GT30 series.

Any help is appreciated, would like to order one today.

Paul.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152068-garrett-gt30r-flavours/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 131
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

You dont want either of those 3071's. You want this one;

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant...tegory_Code=GRT

What sort of power do you want? What sort of response/boost threshold? Answer these 2 questions and it will make it easier to pick a turbo.

Well my aim was 300kw at the end of this year, I want a turbo that can get the power at ~3000-3200 rpm. I was going to do a turbo upgrade 4 months from now after I had bigger injectors FMIC, management and all that jazz. But now I am forced to do it now, I got no time or money to play around with another second hand turbo or new stock one from nissan.

Well my aim was 300kw at the end of this year, I want a turbo that can get the power at ~3000-3200 rpm. I was going to do a turbo upgrade 4 months from now after I had bigger injectors FMIC, management and all that jazz. But now I am forced to do it now, I got no time or money to play around with another second hand turbo or new stock one from nissan.

If you were staying bog stock then the 3071 BHDave suggested would be slightly more responsive for 300 rwkw I would be going GT3076R - 700382-12 with the .63 AR turbine housing.

On a SR the power comes on about 3500 rpm the RB25/26 should come on around the 3000-3200 your looking for. I have spoken to a few people running them and they are a very streetable turbo for the larger RB engines.

Who are you planning to buy from? Morrie from HPinaBox generally has very prompt delivery and knows his stuff if you don't have someone already lined up.

I run a gt3076r with 0.82ar and its awesome response and power. I am only running 16psi and make 260rwkw (heaps more in it) on a really safe tune and with supporting mods. So I would recommend them on a rb25 and with the smaller 0.62 or 0.63 it would be even more responsive.

Paul,

3200rpm and 300rwkw. It won't be happeneing on an RB25. >_<

RB30 yes, but RB25 no. :happy:

You will be looking at ~4000rpm until your pinned in the seat.

Well on Shauns dyno anyway.

I was under the impression that he was looking for boost to start comming on around 3000-3200 not actually have the 300kw. It will be up towards red line before he get 300kw but boost should start to come on around 3000-3200.

Paul,

3200rpm and 300rwkw. It won't be happeneing on an RB25. >_<

RB30 yes, but RB25 no. :happy:

You will be looking at ~4000rpm until your pinned in the seat.

Well on Shauns dyno anyway.

It'll go close. Probably boost all in by 3400 and 280odd rwkw with the 3071 in .63 on the dyno.

Probably a touch sooner on the street in 4th.

Shit, if my old T300s lump can make 1.4 bar by 3200 in 4th on the street and go on to make 288rwkw, then a new generation 3071 in a .63 should decimate it response wise and have similar top end with better transient response.

I have a stock car
I was going to do a turbo upgrade 4 months from now after I had bigger injectors FMIC, management and all that jazz. But now I am forced to do it now, I got no time or money<snip>

U wont be wanting to stick a gt30 on by itself then. Unless u want another dead turbo soon, or can resist the right foot...

It'll go close. Probably boost all in by 3400 and 280odd rwkw with the 3071 in .63 on the dyno.

Probably a touch sooner on the street in 4th.

Shit, if my old T300s lump can make 1.4 bar by 3200 in 4th on the street and go on to make 288rwkw, then a new generation 3071 in a .63 should decimate it response wise and have similar top end with better transient response.

Yes thats fine.. :happy: I was talking about whats considered to be the real GT30r (6blade etc) .82 that will crack the 300rwkw mark.

That old T300s looked like quite a good thing by its dyno sheets. >_<

The GT3071r .63 I think will struggle past 260rwkw. They are responsive but..... well I really think GT3076r 6blade .82 is for 300rwkw, even then it is on its 'limit' and won't be done unless you run some good boost 20 odd psi, cams might possibly be needed. If you want to step down slightly and pick up a little more response grab the 52t GT37 comp wheel.

Discopotato03 is the man to speak to he knows all the ins and outs of the GT30 and its compressor wheels. He has a thread laying around in here some where.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...