Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I got this car for Mona in Sydney you might have seen it on geoff risbey's list... should be a weapon... hope she is going to have fun it...

extras incl

HKS intercooler

HKS Pod

Larger injectors unknown size

Aftermarket computer

HKS 2530 turbo kit

Full HKS exhaust turbo back

Nismo twin plate clutch

Aftermarket LSD

Nismo 320kmh speedo

Three gauges inside the cabin

Tein suspension

Aero body kit

pics attached I'll get some more when it get's here

61,000km rated 1 due to the mods 97 with dual bags and ABS..

price undisclosed sorry.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1521-monas-new-beast/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by ice180

just luck I guess, have links to most of the auctions via the net for Tuesday to Saturday which cost a small fortune but worth it.

Modded cars are usually graded 1 so easier to find..

Isent it hard to get them complied here when they have high mount turbos, and custom plenums and stuff?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1521-monas-new-beast/#findComment-29933
Share on other sites

birt since you spoil the "undisclosed" bits, here's my contribution:

For interest's sake, the HKS turbo kit on the vehicle costs about 380,000 yen ($5,700) to buy in Japan, not including fitting. The TEIN suspension about $4,000 to $5,000. The HKS exhaust around the $2,000 mark as a rough guess. Intercooler about $2,000. Twin plate clutch somewhere between $2,000 and $4,000. Injectors x 6 = $1,600. Airpod $300. Each of the additional gauges is worth $200 to $300. The computer I'm not sure on, but certainly not cheap.

That's at least $18,000 worth of aftermarket extras, not including the Nismo 300 km/h speedo, computer, and the factory LSD, or fitting of the parts. It wouldn't be surprising to find that the owner had spent close to $30,000 on the car once everything was totalled including fitting the parts plus additional items that we are unaware of.

:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1521-monas-new-beast/#findComment-30044
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...