Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I received my strut brace and brake lines today. Thought they were pretty.

Not real CF unfortunately :), but it does only weigh 1.2kg

jicstrutbraceqk2.th.jpg jicstrutbracecloseuppw6.th.jpg appbraidedbrakelinesci2.th.jpg

Someone at JIC can't spell, lol

skilinerf9.th.jpg

And along with the reset of this crap I should be sit'n pretty.

Going in for the stainless kermit intake piping soon. Hopefully next week if kermit is ready :D

apexireplacementfilterspd1.th.jpg bilsteinshocksag6.th.jpg whitelinespringsum2.th.jpg whitelineswaybarswu8.th.jpg

No sticker HP this time but now the R needs rust repaired on the rear guard, bonnet and bar resprayed.

I've been putting that off for too long :D

Say Hi to your mum for me :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152342-happy-snaps/
Share on other sites

brace was from Perfect Run. DCS carbon fibre model.

http://www.perfectrun.com.au/performance%2...rutbracebar.htm

Cost was $201, although my conversion of Y18500 using www.xe.com came to $195 but oh well. Shipping was for 2.7kg which included the brake lines and it came to $59.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152342-happy-snaps/#findComment-2834215
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...
aha! So me and Scott convinced you over to the bright side :(

Brad, was it that sqirmish take off against Paul that convinced you?

Sorry bout the thread jack Tom.... i'll save it buy saying "nice pictures, and where did you get the break lines? PM pls"

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152342-happy-snaps/#findComment-3102367
Share on other sites

I just relised that i hate the look of the rear of a R32 GTR, so as i cant pass them, i may aswell drive one to save me from looking at it!!!

What im looking for is a really really clean and tidy STOCK 32 with low kilometres. If i cant find one, i wont buy one.

As for my take off against Paul, was he trying at all or not really??

Oh, nice floor mats Tom. :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152342-happy-snaps/#findComment-3106536
Share on other sites

I though so too, with the Nismo twin it should feel more like stock.

Hate the 32 rear end? Its the nicest of all 4 main Skylines :domokun:

What im looking for is a really really clean and tidy STOCK 32 with low kilometres. If i cant find one, i wont buy one.

Most of the 32 GTR's coming out of Japan are the 1994 models which are Vspecs with the BBS's and the Brembos. As for low km's and stock these are your best option, obviously, but you can never know if the Japs run the clocks back a few 1000 k's. Just look for a Grade 5 on Prestige or whatever...

Sorry for the hijack...... wait a minit!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152342-happy-snaps/#findComment-3109458
Share on other sites

Tom do you mind stop hi jacking your own thread!

thank you!

Interested to see how your clutch goes though. Bringing her out to next wanneroo night?

p.s. Have to have a look at fair pricing on GTR's to. May just be a bit more than i want to pay.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152342-happy-snaps/#findComment-3109723
Share on other sites

Interested to see how your clutch goes though. Bringing her out to next wanneroo night?

Probably not too soon, I have insurance for both my cars (I bought a MKII Escort last week) and credit card debt (the clutch money) and owe my parents like $700 still so maybe later in the year. Should have the high power floor mats in by then too :( (she needs a vacuum)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152342-happy-snaps/#findComment-3110610
Share on other sites



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...