Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah i want to buy some coilovers ive been quoted $1100 brand new but anyways.

i ive seen people selling them on here cheaper and i dont know if the gts-t coilovers would fit me gts r33?

could u please tell me if they would fit or not...

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152457-does-gts-t-coilovers-fit-my-gts/
Share on other sites

I have ABS and have fiited gtst suspension... no worries!

i dont know if i have abs brakes is there anyway if i can tell...

ive seen them coilovers with 2holes down the bottom, and ive seen the ones with 1 hole. i dont know what im suppose to get

2 holes sounds like gtr/gts4.. that wont fit. if your abs backets dont mount to your coil overs you can always just cable tie them to the coil overs. you just needa rember to cut them everytime you pull them out...

2 holes sounds like gtr/gts4.. that wont fit. if your abs backets dont mount to your coil overs you can always just cable tie them to the coil overs. you just needa rember to cut them everytime you pull them out...

wha that sound bodgey? is it 100% safe? and i asked how can i tell if i have abs please :/

of course its safe. most modifyd cars will have atleast 1 cable tie involved in them. it doesnt affect how it works. you just securing it to the bottom of the shock.

look in the back passanger corner of your engine bay.. you will see a big silver pump thingy there. the otherway to see is slam on your brakes and see if your peddel kicks back at you...

Check this website out this guy is so freindly and good price on coil overs im gonna probably buy coil overs from him, great price great coil overs, and best service ive seen, but u will need someone to fit them for u.

http://www.isc-coilovers.com/

coilovers are easy to fit...

i'm a bit weiry about these "coilover" packages. spring rates, rebound rates etc... unless they are designed for australian roads, it'll be pretty redundant to have them.

i'd be more inclined to opt for the australian tein spec coilovers or sydneykid's revalved suspension buy. for under $1700 you get castor/camber bushes, pineapples and adjustable height suspension with re-engineered valving. you cant go wrong.

really depends on your car application. i found that my standard springs and shocks (although hideous looking) had pretty good spring and rebound rates.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...