Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok, lately Ive been having problems changing into gear, its been getting harder and harder until finally its at a stage where its so stiff its pretty much un-driveable.

the car is a R32 GTS-t Manual, roughly 150rwkw and stock clutch.

so symptoms, like i said really hard to change into all gears, but mainly when stationary, when moving i think (not 100% sure) double clutching seems to help. Also i think after a while of driving it seems to get better. so this had me thinking mainly it was gearbox related.

until today, i went to start my car which is always left in gear, clutch fully in and when i went to click it over the car rocked like as if u tried to start it in gear but not as harsh. Then once it was started it was still a bitch to get in gear, once i got out of the driveway almost impossible to get into gear, when i had the clutch completely in and tried to put it into 1st and 2nd etc it seemed to start moving forward even though it wasn't even in gear, just pushed down hard trying to get it into gear.

Anyway back to last night clutch was always a possibility so there were a few things i had noticed, the clutch did feel a bit weird and possibly lighter with a lot of slack (could be my imagination), and also i did the drop clutch test, in 1st gear in semi wet conditions with new 225's on the back i revved it up and dropped it rolling at about 10ks and it spun up straight away. I have tried the same with 2nd gear before and no cigar, clutch slipped like a bitch.

To be honest i didn't really think the clutch felt like it was slipping at all during normal driving or even real hard driving (not including clutch kicks) so i still thought i had a bit left in it.

but yeh sorry for the long post but hopefully someone can identify the issue, any help would be greatly appreciated.

cheers

Edited by nisskid
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152681-clutch-problem/
Share on other sites

Almost sounds like the clutch is not disengaging properly and this is why you are having trouble changing gears and why it rolled forward even though you had your foot on the clutch when you started it..

Doubt it's slipping, more likely not disengaging..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152681-clutch-problem/#findComment-2839989
Share on other sites

yep, thats what i couldnt understand, if it was slipping if anything it would probably make it easier to change gears, its more like its engaged partially even when the clutch pedal is completely down. on ns.com i was given a guide to adjust the clutch level in a silvia, that sounds like the way to go but i need to find out how to do it in a R32.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152681-clutch-problem/#findComment-2840280
Share on other sites

my ceffy did the same at QR on sunday - starting it in gear with clutch in it started to move forward (if i start it in neutral i cant get any gear) - Stopped in staging, foot on clutch (brand new 2wks old Exedy HD item) car still wanted to roll forward slowly...

Car also bunnyhopped occassionally when clutch was fully out

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152681-clutch-problem/#findComment-2844499
Share on other sites

check the fluid level in the master cylinder sounds like you have a leak and there is now air in the system which is why the clutch pedal feels different and also why the clutch is hard to use

BINGO! i went to adjust my clutch today and had the thought, how bout i check my fluid level. turns out it was dry as a 90 year old's snatch, also noticed the brake level was below minimum along with steering fluid. I know the steering pump lines are leaking but i checked my fluids a month or less back and it was all fine. might have to keep a close eye out incase there is a leak in the clutch and brake lines.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152681-clutch-problem/#findComment-2844811
Share on other sites

easy way to check is master is leaking, is look for stains on the firewall or in the foot well just above the clutch pedal, for the slave just have a look and see if you can see any fluid around it.

the brakes on the other hand i would get checked out, they are not something you want to let go clutch isn't so bad compared to brakes

Edited by Green_s13
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152681-clutch-problem/#findComment-2850307
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
    • I am truly amazed someone on this planet was able to cycle the pump using a scan tool. I've always ghetto cycled them on Nissan 90s shit boxes by slamming the brakes and pulling the handbrake to agitate the rear wheels enough to cause a speed difference
×
×
  • Create New...