Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys/Gals

I think I may have an issue with the thermo fan on my R32 GTR (it's not working at ALL !!!)

I'm in sunny Brisbane - and now that we are getting some reasonable summer heat - I've noticed my PFC temp readings creeping up over 100 from time to time.

The car normally sits on 80 - but I've been stuck in traffic a couple of time over the past few weeks and noticed my water temps starting to creek up. (java script:emoticon(':D', 'smid_15')

:)

Yes - I have a N1 water pump - no sledging from SK pls.

When she hit 100 degrees today - I could not hear the fan come on - and the temp continued to climb (107) until I cleared the traffic and got some air flowing

1: how do I check that my themo fan is working (properly ?)

2: if I want to replace it - what should I get ?

3: I've herd you can get the PFC to turn the fan on earlier - how is this done - is there someone in Brisbane that can do this for me

4: the first person to mention blown head gasket (or similar) gets to pay for the replacement :ninja:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153264-thermo-fan-issues-with-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites

did you take the engine fan off?

what controls the thermo fan?

the current fan is the std fan AFAIK

was of the understanding that the themostat controlled the clutch on the fan

have not RTFMed as yet tho

am I missing something ?

Edited by itbmils
Guys/Gals

I think I may have an issue with the thermo fan on my R32 GTR (it's not working at ALL !!!)

I'm in sunny Brisbane - and now that we are getting some reasonable summer heat - I've noticed my PFC temp readings creeping up over 100 from time to time.

The car normally sits on 80 - but I've been stuck in traffic a couple of time over the past few weeks and noticed my water temps starting to creek up. (java script:emoticon(':thumbsup:', 'smid_15')

:woot:

Yes - I have a N1 water pump - no sledging from SK pls.

When she hit 100 degrees today - I could not hear the fan come on - and the temp continued to climb (107) until I cleared the traffic and got some air flowing

1: how do I check that my themo fan is working (properly ?)

2: if I want to replace it - what should I get ?

3: I've herd you can get the PFC to turn the fan on earlier - how is this done - is there someone in Brisbane that can do this for me

4: the first person to mention blown head gasket (or similar) gets to pay for the replacement :P

Fan should be working mate,

What you do is short circuit it, it'll turn on. If after you've short circuit it and it still won't turn on then its quite obvious.

My advise to you is to pull your radiator out, send it to a shop to have the TOP TANK pull out, clean. You'll be supprise how much blockage you have because WATER TEMP should never goes up to 100.

While your radiator is out, get a new Thermal Switch from Nissan as well.

My car HEATED up like that once and the FAN didn't work, only work when i switch the A/C on so i assume its the PFC that has something to do with it. Still in the progress to find out why as if it was stock ECU, FAN would kicks in straight the way.

the current fan is the std fan AFAIK

The engine driven fan is controlled by the temperature of the air passing through the radiator. There's a bi-metallic strip on the front of the hub which controls internal passages and 'switches' the fan in or out. Of course engine speed also plays a role. If you still have the engine fan fitted it's possible the hub is stuffed and simply 'freewheeling', which would give bugger all engine cooling from the fan, and that would be worse in stop-start traffic (and that N1 pump wouldn't be helping either....). If you don't have the engine fan fitted then put it back on ASAP.

The thermostatic fan on the front of the radiator isn't meant to be used as the main cooling fan for the engine. It's controlled by a sensor at the bottom of the radiator, plus has some link to the ECU (from memory). Basically it's meant to be for assidtance to the engine fan in extreme situations.....eg hot days with aircon on.

why shouldnt it go up over 100, thats the whole reason its pressurised, so it doesnt boil.

in a gtir i have seen 110 water temp with no detremental effects

Eventually there would be. Generally, cooling systems are designed to operate in the region of 80 to 90C, with perhaps going to 95 in extreme circumstances. Certainly a properly designed cooling system in good condition should not see 100C and 110C is way too high. Pressurisation provides a safety margin by raising the boiling point, but keep in mind that the thermostat usually starts to open in the low 80's and will be fully open (ie full flow through the radiator) at around 90C, so the system is at max cooling capacity for any given engine speed. If the theromstat is fully open and engine temp continues to rise, there is probably some other cooling system problem (water pump on the way out or clogged radiator, etc.

When i seen 110, the factory guage had not moved at all, i was reading it off the power fc handset, it was 41 degrees, in traffic with ac on full.

I know idealy it shouldnt, but in most cars they do get quite hot. some Commodore thermo fans only turn on at like 98 degrees.

My skyline stays quite cool below 90 with ac on in hot days, but i also have an oil cooler that helps a little.

Edited by GTR1993
The engine driven fan is controlled by the temperature of the air passing through the radiator. There's a bi-metallic strip on the front of the hub which controls internal passages and 'switches' the fan in or out. Of course engine speed also plays a role. If you still have the engine fan fitted it's possible the hub is stuffed and simply 'freewheeling', which would give bugger all engine cooling from the fan, and that would be worse in stop-start traffic (and that N1 pump wouldn't be helping either....). If you don't have the engine fan fitted then put it back on ASAP.

The thermostatic fan on the front of the radiator isn't meant to be used as the main cooling fan for the engine. It's controlled by a sensor at the bottom of the radiator, plus has some link to the ECU (from memory). Basically it's meant to be for assidtance to the engine fan in extreme situations.....eg hot days with aircon on.

Hang on - sorry pps

I think I may be talking about the engine fan. The large clutch fan attached to the radiator inside the engine bay - not the secondary fan on the outside of the radiator - which I probably also need to check.

how can I check if this guy is working ?

Edited by itbmils
When i seen 110, the factory guage had not moved at all, i was reading it off the power fc handset, it was 41 degrees, in traffic with ac on full.

I know idealy it shouldnt, but in most cars they do get quite hot. some Commodore thermo fans only turn on at like 98 degrees.

My skyline stays quite cool below 90 with ac on in hot days, but i also have an oil cooler that helps a little.

yep - mine used to sit bang on 80 all the time (rain/mail/shin) - but in the past few weeks - I think the fan has gone to a better place :P

I did have some work done on the air con a little while ago - maybe I should check that everything has been connected up properly

I recently suffered the same issue with a freinds turbo VL. We changed 4 second hand clutch fans, remotely triggered the air con fan with an extra power wire (so the air con can still run the fan at it's will) and the old RB still would not stop cooking.

Pulled the radiator apart and it was clugged up quite bad. The cleaner radiator really helped. but on the stinking hot days it was still getting to hot. Ended up buying a brand new clutch for the fan and the whole problem is now gone. He also now has the bonus of turning on the extra fan at his will and it aids in cooling the air-con and intercooler as well!

Any other thoughts.. :yes:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...