Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 166
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Ill pass on the food Ian - Im going to have to race from my house just to get there (where are we meeting exactly?) at 7 (are we meeting at 7? remember seeing 7 somewhere in the post)

in summary:

- no food for me thanks

- please update 1st post with exact meeting location and meeting time

:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153441-closed/page/5/#findComment-2874474
Share on other sites

yeah i'll come, sounds like fun, i have a spare seat.

if i dont have my car in time rohan i'll co-pilot with you again if you want.

it'll either arrive on the day or after the weekend :woot: so, luck pending, could be driving (but knowing my luck , i wont be)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153441-closed/page/5/#findComment-2876183
Share on other sites

Details Update:

Meeting Place:

This time round we will only be doing one meetup point, this is to allow me to get pizza for everyone. I cannot go to the southside meetup and get pizza at the same time, as it would be cold for the northside meetup

Meetup Place and Time: 7pm, Bunnings Warehouse, Stafford Road, Stafford. Near the car lovers. I will be waiting there with pizza for thoes who place there orders now.

I am willing to go on trust and have people pay me once they get there, but, please do not abuse this. If you are not going to be there, *please let me know in advance*, espically of you have ordered a pizza.

If you want a pizza, post up. Orders will close midday friday. I will be getting the pizza from Pizza Hut, unless anyone has any objections.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153441-closed/page/5/#findComment-2876349
Share on other sites

Just finished scouting the run then, will be a good run, car developed a few problems on the stint back however I believe them to be fule related... (a reset of the ECU fixed it tempoarily - its cutting boost back to 0.6 BAR, I believe its getting a high knock reading... Will fill it up with fuel again tomorrow and see how it go's)

The run itself is quite intresting and should be a blast. Coming down the samford way off nebo will be a chalange with some very tight corners, also the oppisite side of clear mountain has a few good corners on it. Mt Mee is also a nice road with some 100-km/h speed limit twisty sections :laugh:

Should be a good night!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153441-closed/page/5/#findComment-2879453
Share on other sites

Not as far as I know - I lost track of the name of the roads after we got off clear mountain road but I know where im going now. Theres also a few really nice stops along the way

ill look at campbells pocket, see what I can figure out. In other news, my car sorted itself as soon as it got some ultimate into it... Damn dodge vortex.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153441-closed/page/5/#findComment-2879566
Share on other sites

Ian, how come we are starting the night so far from the start of the run?? The Gap Village is a lot closer and has ample parking?? Or aren't you starting from Nebo?? I just think we lose too many people going through so many sets of lights.

I am in either way and will give you my pizza order once I figure out a nice way to break my free dinner plans with my parents.......

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153441-closed/page/5/#findComment-2879581
Share on other sites

You have a fair point about the gap village. I like the bunnings however as it has easy access and we wont have people getting lost in the carpark like last time. On the other hand I will be pulling into the large BP on waterworks road like last time to allow everyone to make sure they have fule. Also, theres a BP at the end of this run, same one we stoped at on the december run.

I can change the meeting point to the gap village however im worried it might be a bit late for that and we will loose people.

List of stops:

1. Bunnings (will post address in a tic, watch this space)

2. Large BP on waterworks Road

3. Jollies Lookout

4. The lookout ontop of clear mountain. Its kind of just a dirt patch so im not sure if it has a name

5. Mt Mee lookout. Great lookout, has clear public facilities, good view, heaps of parking, a little undercover area. Good spot for photos.

6. BP we stoped at in the december run (cant remember the name). Cruise will stop here, people are free to make there way home in small groups.

Roads/turns Taken:

1. Waterworks road

2. Mt Nebo Road

3. Arrive at jollies lookout

4. Turn left from jollies when leaving. Follow this road until you get to the samford turn off. Take this. Be advised, tight corners, when they say 60 kph they really do mean it on some of thoes corners.

5. Follow the road your on once you get off the mountain until you hit a large roundabout with a caltex on the left hand corner. Turn left at this roundabout. Please try to limit BOV / Noise through here as were going up the guts of samford and im sure the residents wouldnt appreciate all the racket.

6. Turn right onto (road name pending). Follow this road until you see clear mountain road. Well signed.

7. Follow clear mountain road until you arrive at the top. The lookout is a sharp bend round a blind right hand 90 degree corner, it has a large dirt patch to the left with a great view and a hotel on the right ontop of the hill the corner go's around.

8. Continue in direction we were going before we stoped at the lookout. This will take you to the bottom of the mountain. Turn left and follow this for about 5 - 10 mins, you will arrive in a town and the road will eventually bend round to the right with another road going off to the left. Follow the turn to the right, the the next left, then follow the signs to mt mee. After stoping at the meeting point, continue on down mt mee road until you arrive at another T intersection, turn right and follow your nose, it will lead you to the BP and then to brisbane / home.

In total last night we left at about 8:30 and got home at about 12:30. We didnt do nebo, just headed straight out to samford, but we got lost once and I had to pull over for 30 mins when the ECU decided it didnt like vortex 98 so the whole run should take about 4 hours or so.

Thats all for now. Works busy atm so ill update the blanks and stuff later on.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153441-closed/page/5/#findComment-2879872
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...