Jump to content
SAU Community

Jaycar Responce Amp

T04GTR

By T04GTR,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
Posted

hi.

have any of you guys had any issues with the jaycar responce 4x100 digital full range car amp?

ive been thru 2 so far!!!! the first one just stopped working.

and the second oner doesnt work at all!!

ive no probs with my class d sub amp but.

just curiouse as its only a 4ohm load and all hooked up properly....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153669-jaycar-responce-amp/
Share on other sites
grandmasterb Grand Master

grandmasterb

Posted
Posted
hi.

have any of you guys had any issues with the jaycar responce 4x100 digital full range car amp?

ive been thru 2 so far!!!! the first one just stopped working.

and the second oner doesnt work at all!!

ive no probs with my class d sub amp but.

just curiouse as its only a 4ohm load and all hooked up properly....

I had an internal earth issue with mine, took it back and never had a problem with the next one.

I only used it for about 6 weeks and i sold it :happy:

Did you do the install or was a professional install???

Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted
I had an internal earth issue with mine, took it back and never had a problem with the next one.

I only used it for about 6 weeks and i sold it :(

Did you do the install or was a professional install???

sounds likethe red light of death to me. short the speaker wires for a second and it wont go ever again.

T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

nup where alll done proper. i did it myself. i am a qualified mechanic. and know what im doing.

the first one just stopped all together. to the point where the protect light came on with just the power ooked up. nothing else.

the second one. wich is clearly a reapaird one cos one of the swithches is busted off.

no warning lights just the green one. and all you get is a loud crack threw the speakers :s

Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted
nup where alll done proper. i did it myself. i am a qualified mechanic. and know what im doing.

the first one just stopped all together. to the point where the protect light came on with just the power ooked up. nothing else.

the second one. wich is clearly a reapaird one cos one of the swithches is busted off.

no warning lights just the green one. and all you get is a loud crack threw the speakers :s

first one did an output stage- quite common.

second could be anything. which switch?

(actually show me.)

Adelaideprosound Proficient

Adelaideprosound

Posted
Posted

Qualified mechanics work on my engine, noone qualified them to work on my car audio equipment :D.

Hahahahahah only joking dude. Are both amps running from the same power wire and fuse? If it was me i would first check whether you got a good power and earth on the amp and also that the remote wire is all good.

Its strange your first amp stopped working the second wont power up. If you got separate power cables for your 4 channel and class D i would check the fuse under the bonnet for the 4 channel.

George

Adelaide Pro Sound

DRD-00F Grand Master

DRD-00F

Posted
Posted

Ive got the previous model 400watt amp... its blue... ive had it powering 2 15's and its powering 2 12's right now cause my 3000watt amp is in the shop... ive never blown it, never 'over'heated (though i do over work it so its gonna get hot) the ONLY problem i ever had with it was one of the threads wore out cause i used it as a back up all the time... that was replaced for free...

dunno about their new range...

Demoniak Proficient

Demoniak

Posted
Posted
i got one of the old school blue ones too and its still goin, had it for about 2yrs now maybe 3.

jaycars primary focus is not amps...

i dont go for companies that dont excell in the areas i am interested in ( obviously)

do some more research on the net and get a few pointers from different peeps.

I personally like soundstream gear.. that stuff makes me happy in the pants

  • 6 months later...
abu Grand Master

abu

Posted
Posted

I have had a D-CLASS Reponse amp and had no problem, ran it pretty hard too.

My friend also has one running 3 x ALPINE 12" subs off his one and been running fine, also has a 4x100RMS one running his ALPINE splits, front and back with no issues.

Jaycar's amps are supposed to be very good quality and very good value for money.

Maybe you have just had bad luck.. twice lol

Anyways, hope it all works out.

Thanks,

Abu

T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

also.. im not that clued up on this sort of thing but.. my head unit only puts out 2.2v preout. and to get any sort of decant volume i have to have the gain on the amps turned up the whole way. ie:down to the 500mv scale.

now is this a bad idea for sound quality, is this likly to make the amp clip more? will i be able to get more volume and better sound out of a propper headunit that puts out say 4v preout? (i dont use the headunit amp)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Rb26 iron block limit

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Which is why I didn't mention that hardness testing, and specifically mentioned the bore and deck thickness testing. Yeah, not really. The bore temperature will be a lot more even around the top half inch or so, where the material distribution is dominated by the deck, and which is the only place where the bore surface temperature heating any gas in the cylinder is likely to have any effect on detonation. Think about it. Another inch or so down the bore, you might have a hotter spot. The gas there might get a bit hotter, then the piston rises squeezes that gas away from there at high speed and mixes it with other gas from nearby. Instant dilution of the problem. I'd be surprised if it was an issue at any time other than in racing engines or OEM dev engines being run at the ragged edge of tuning. Say what now?
    • joshuaho96
      Rb26 iron block limit

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/education/engine-tech-material-hardness-testing/ The PRP testing on block hardness I'm not sure how much it actually can be trusted. The thinner cylinder walls on RBs is a bit of a problem vs 2JZ but it really depends on the design goal. Siamesed cylinder bores like a 2JZ cause uneven cylinder wall temps too, which means a bit of distortion induced by that + the hotspot can affect knock margin. Something that actually gives me a bit of pause with the PRP block, whether super thick cylinder walls are going to keep it from being drop-in compatible on an otherwise OEM rebuild. 
    • Sleepergm
      Hks race car install

      By Sleepergm · Posted

      Yeah very valid point. I am waiting for one of the other tuners to come back from vacation so he can help me a bit when the cat is installed again. In the meantime I am going to finish up my polishing and ceramic coating that I have started myself.    N45 Dr Beasley product is highly recommended for a paint primer / polisher. Using this EXO Gtechniq also for the ceramic but next time might use the light serum before hand also. Looks great. 
    • joshuaho96
      Hks race car install

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Running rich in conditions where it shouldn't probably won't do great things for catalytic converter lifespan. I would fix that sooner than later.
    • GTSBoy
      Rb26 iron block limit

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes, important point. Watch the Motive videos with Herman thickness testing the bores and deck. You do not want to push the unlucky (thin) block as hard as you can push the average block.
×
×
  • Create New...