Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can a Cusco 2 way LSD (R32 GTST) diff center be readjusted/retention to be a little less tight.

Its a little clunky witch doesn't worry me but its a little tight for street driving.

If it cant be no biggy Just thought I would ask the Question.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153870-cusco-2-way-diff-readjustment/
Share on other sites

Can a Cusco 2 way LSD (R32 GTST) diff center be readjusted/retention to be a little less tight.

Its a little clunky witch doesn't worry me but its a little tight for street driving.

If it cant be no biggy Just thought I would ask the Question.

Cheers.

You could grind the plates a bit thinner, maybe machine the case to have less preload, or just maybe remove one pair of plates, you'd need to get it stripped on the bench and have look / measure up.

  • 7 months later...
You could grind the plates a bit thinner, maybe machine the case to have less preload, or just maybe remove one pair of plates, you'd need to get it stripped on the bench and have look / measure up.

Well I just had a win with the diff. I decided to go with an oil change and my god the difference is insane. I was using the incorrect oil weighting (90w140 I think) and I just changed it to penrite "sin 75" (75w90 synthetic oil).

The diff is silent with no chattering or clunking. Its nice and tight yet really smooth. I feel like a real mooron :P

that oil is way to thin for the diff, stick an lsd oil in it like ls90 or ls140 plus an additive like ford motorsport diff additive or something similar

The oil I used is meant for LSD's.

It is designed to work for any gearbox / differential (includeing lsd's) that require 75w90 or 80w90.

It has worked the treat so I don't see it being a problem.

im using redline shockproof NS with friction modifier.. on my 180 it is harsh as hell.. and clunks everywher.. the oil is 75-140 from memory...

was thinking of switching it out with castrol syntrans or the penrite.

what do u think.?

Well I would try the "SIN 75 or sin 80" these oils are synthetic and are GLI 4 and 5 complient so I would not use it to be braking in the diff but after that I dont see it being a problem.

Make sense to me as a thinner oil would penitrate the plates of a tight lsd better than a thicker oil.

im using redline shockproof NS with friction modifier.. on my 180 it is harsh as hell.. and clunks everywher.. the oil is 75-140 from memory...

was thinking of switching it out with castrol syntrans or the penrite.

what do u think.?

yeah get that shock proof outta there, awesome for boxes.... baad for diffs. Redline do a excellent oil for mech diffs so use it instead 85w140.

Well I would try the "SIN 75 or sin 80" these oils are synthetic and are GLI 4 and 5 complient so I would not use it to be braking in the diff but after that I dont see it being a problem.

Make sense to me as a thinner oil would penitrate the plates of a tight lsd better than a thicker oil.

i have no faith in penrite oils after seeing some of the results in oil sample tests but your theory on thinners oils is no-where close to reality unfortunately.

i have no faith in penrite oils after seeing some of the results in oil sample tests but your theory on thinners oils is no-where close to reality unfortunately.

Different diffs will need different oils. I am just telling people about my troubles and my soltions to the issues. No lies just what I did and what outcome I had.

I agree that penright may not be the best brand around for oils but in this instance it worked out great.

I have had a search and KAAZ and Nismo diffs recommend the 80w90 weighting so I think the cusco RS diff in my r32 will be ok.

Edited by RedDrifter
im using redline shockproof NS with friction modifier.. on my 180 it is harsh as hell.. and clunks everywher.. the oil is 75-140 from memory...

was thinking of switching it out with castrol syntrans or the penrite.

what do u think.?

Its the Syntrax you want.. Not the Syntrans.

The Syntrans is for transmissions and the syntrax for diff's.

The Castrol Syntrax has the ford lsd additive already in it.

Its the Syntrax you want.. Not the Syntrans.

The Syntrans is for transmissions and the syntrax for diff's.

The Castrol Syntrax has the ford lsd additive already in it.

thanks cubes...

should i save the redline and put it in my box :P i think its a bit too thick for the box 75w-140 as its only been in ther for 2 practices and 800kms

  • 2 weeks later...

hey guys just quickly my mate got me some penrite limslip 85w-140 extra heavy duty SAE API GL - 5/6 extreme pressure limited slip differentials oil

will this be suitable for my cusco 2way LSD.. im sick of the chatter and clunks with the Redline.

thanks

mark.

markimak,

Try some friction modifier first. Unsure if ford still stock it or not.

But failing that simply drop the castrol saf-xa oil in to it that already has the friction modifier in it. OR buy redline again + friction modifier and it will be just as good.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...