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Hi people

I'm looking at getting an r32 gtr and i have a couple of questions

what are the common things that go wrong with this car and is there any thing that i should look at before i buy it.

The one i'm looking at has twin air filters and a zorst but that's it.

how much power will that make??

what is standard boost??

what after market computers are good for this car and is micro tech a chance? how much does it cost to but and then install and how much is the tune??

what are other relitivlly inexpensive way's of making power out of these cars after the computer is changed??

and what boost can i safely run on the standard turbo's

and any other information you can give me will be great.

And i tried to search GTR but nothing useful came up

Cheers

anthony

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have a browse around the forums, there is plenty of info to keep you occupied.

the 32's are getting on in years and altho most are well maintained many have been thrashed and on thier last legs, realy its like buying any 15year old car, have a real good look at it...!

many cars from japan have basic mods such as pods, exaust and a few gadgets but thats about it, these cars are good for around 165kw at all 4 wheels at stock boost (8psi? i cant recall)

PowerFC is the computer upgrade most people go with, I have a feeling Microtech isn't the best option for them, my tuner reccomended PowerFC or go the Motec.

.9 bar boost (14psi) seems to be the safe limit for stock turbos and with pods and an exaust should net around 195kw at all 4

if the car has no service history in australia I'd recomend you get all fluids changed (including brakes and diffs) plugs and dial it in on the dyno at .9 bar and leave it there until you do somthing about aftermarket turbos. Oh and you will want to change the cam belt.

I did all the above and it cost me around $1100

with N1 or equivilent turbos you sheld be able to make close to 300kw at the wheels with a stock bottom end, for how long till you spin a bearing who knows tho.

if your in melb and in the market, mine is for sale ;)

(if any of the above is incorrect please feel free to point and laugh)

also look for one without much paint missing from the inlet manifold.

common probs are low compression and bottom end bearing problems, so make sure u get a compression test done. as for the bearings, i duno how u can chek that realy. sumone else on here may be able to help you

goodluck

yeh make sure you get a compression test done. i did when i bought mine and was 150 across all six.

also look under the body for rust etc,plenum as someone mentioned.also dont take whats on the clock for the truth. have a good look at interior and all the little things people tend to forget when they think they have found the 1.

just remember your going to be the next owner so make sure you go through the car with fine tooth comb.

also look for one without much paint missing from the inlet manifold.

common probs are low compression and bottom end bearing problems, so make sure u get a compression test done. as for the bearings, i duno how u can chek that realy. sumone else on here may be able to help you

goodluck

thats not always the case u might be unluckly like me and chip the paint off and splash brakefluid on it accidently.. ;) oh well

mate save urself the trouble and buy mine..

ok pointers. judge kms by condition of interior and exterior. moreso interior ive seen GTR with 60kms on clock and ripped seats. lol

also compression test is good.

look in the boot around the spare wheel for rust. i got none :D

airfilters like pods are gay for BNR32. the RB6 is like an oven. only decrease power with pods..

but seriously if ur looking. have a look at mine. ;)

what model,kms etc does it have. any pics at all

it'a a 1990 bnr 32 gtr and it's done 101000 km the guy is emailing me pics hopefully tonight so i'll post them up. He's had it for 2 years doen't leak anything at all and he say's it's in great condition.

Cheers

anthony

all the information u need on what mods and what power will be in rb26 turbo upgrade and dyno results at the top of forced induc. Including baseline power and what ups make what. I feel the best comp. is power fc, been around for ever and is very easy to tune and reliable. All those comps u have to program from scratch you'll always have dramas with, cold start and what not. Power fc, ur car will always run and run everything in ur car. It's made for our cars. Compression test the engine when buying

The price is nice and cheap, 101000 km sounds a bit sus, as thats a good spot to stop when winding it back, but the condition of the car is more important than the k's. See if you can run it up on the hoist, eaasy to tell diff whines, check suspension bushes etc. Athough at that price you can afford to spend a bit tidying it up, as long as the motor doesn't blow, keep an eye on the oil pressure gauge when hot at low rpm.

cheap!

tell him to raise it so my car is worth more :laugh:

tbh at $17k I would be looking very closely at the car, they can be a money pit (you will be $20k before you have it in your name, insured and on the road) but there are good buys to be had so if it all checks out go for it!

thanks for all the info guys

the bloke just lost his license and he seems like a nice guy he's driven it all of 2000km in two years since he has imported it as he has a another car for during the week. i asked him about any problems he said the usual stone chips on the front and a little rust in one rear quater panel but that was it

Cheers

anthony

thats not always the case u might be unluckly like me and chip the paint off and splash brakefluid on it accidently.. :laugh: oh well

mate save urself the trouble and buy mine..

ok pointers. judge kms by condition of interior and exterior. moreso interior ive seen GTR with 60kms on clock and ripped seats. lol

also compression test is good.

look in the boot around the spare wheel for rust. i got none :laugh:

airfilters like pods are gay for BNR32. the RB6 is like an oven. only decrease power with pods..

but seriously if ur looking. have a look at mine. :(

yeh thats a good point about the brake fluid spilling on the plenum. but when u see one with alot of paint flakes missing, does that mean the car has high kilometers? has had a hard time? or is just a wear and tear thing that naturaly happens ? ive noticed afew r very clean with like 1 little scratch

anywayz dude that sounds like a realy good price but check it over very closly as everyone has said.

in all honesty the flaking paint on the intake pipe on stock cars is a bit of bullshit considering most r32 GTR's are now 15yo.

maybe when the cars were alot younger, but the condition of the car should talk volumes more than some missing paint on the plenum

(btw, mine hasnt lost to much paint :laugh:)

mine was totally clean when i got it. but being a messy mech i just did a brake fluid flush and spilt some and got a rag and that was it.. haha.

also dropping tools on the rocker cover chips paint too. but wher else do u put it with one hand down the turbo side.?

hmm yeah some tachos screw up big time when put back pass 100 if its been over 100..? my mate tried it in his CA18DE s13..

check if his C pillar has log books on it?

look for good compression & leak down results

general poor condition , paint fading , flaking , excessive wear on seat , wheel , gear shift , door trims . or replaced items indicates high km

rust , undercaridge and wheel arches especially

accident damage , especially if not a sevs imported car , undercarige again look for new welds/seems in engine bay also

not as bad but a pain would be turbos health , eletrical issues and 4wd/4ws problems . but definetly rust , accident damage and engine health are you main concerns .

a 17000$ gtr would probably have all of those , save up and get a mint 94 for 30k and then you will get a very nice car

Edited by arkon

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