Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok, i was set on getting a c4 vette but alot of r_32 have been coming around for sales on prestige_motorsport. and now im not too sure i really like the oldskool look of 32 and yeah im not a fan of turbo but for some reason im really thinking about the r_32 (GTS-T Or GTR);

But then i look at the vette and what i could do to it 396_BLOWN (600rwhp) i drowl :uh-huh:

Your options would be helpful thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15390-r32-vs-c4-vette/
Share on other sites

They both turn head and both go fast. If going for a r32 everyone will say go for the GTR for obvious reasons. I love vettes aswell but nothing can beat the power of the attessa AWD system. With the GTR you will beat 99% of cars off the lights. With the vette it wont be as easy due to sooo much power. However, it is nice to hear the power of the V8 roll up beside you and get indimidated.

Anyway, everyone has their own oppinion and good luck on the car

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15390-r32-vs-c4-vette/#findComment-315206
Share on other sites

The big problem I have with Yankee cars is the fact they are LHD - dodgy and expensive RHD conversion.

The C4 Corvette is a classic. 1984-1997.

Few cars can boast such a long model cycle. Styling is great, engineering is ok with merely adequate gearboxes (4 spd + 3 spd. overdrive manual, 4 speed auto or the Commodore 6 spd manual). The body is largely fiberglass. The engine is an old school injected 350.

The GT-R is a much more complex car. I would imagine general maintenance on the GT-R is easier if not cheaper.

T.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15390-r32-vs-c4-vette/#findComment-316090
Share on other sites

my dad has an 86 vette and can i say that they are fantastic cars to drive, and they look 3000 times better than an r32.

i would still say go far a gtr as parts are more plentiful and nothing beats the build quality of a jap car compared to any american car. also vettes can show signs of their age while you would probably looking at a newer model if you got a gtr.

just my 2c

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15390-r32-vs-c4-vette/#findComment-316150
Share on other sites

If you can stretch the $$$ to get a 91 onwards Vette with updated interior/engine/gearbox/front & rear bars then why the hell not.

Stay away from the 84 Vette, engines are hopeless (Crossfire Injection) Go for the L98 engine or the even better LT1.

If after a manual again try and avoid the 4spd with 3 overdrive gears. This Doug Nash box wasnt all that great and was only put in the Vette to get fuel economy. The ZF 6 speed is the same as in the VN GRP A Commodore and are a robust unit.

My dream car is a Calloway Supernatural, if i had the coin then it would be no contest. As for parts, they are readily available from importers or direct from the US, but i suspect wont be as cheap as R32 parts.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15390-r32-vs-c4-vette/#findComment-316371
Share on other sites

Parts is a big problem also i will be on my P's so police and all that will be on my a$$ all the time.

I would go for a 91 vette but i will have to get it done to RHD which will cost me an arm and a leg (anywhere from 10,000 to 15,000)

the 350 doesnt matter so much cuz it will be 396 with superchange soo after i get it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15390-r32-vs-c4-vette/#findComment-316399
Share on other sites

Ps and Corvette, well dont i feel like a dead beat, im 26 and couldnt possibly afford one.

Do your homework, late model Vettes arent the easiest things to supercharge, space restrictions etc with most kits being for LHD.

Stroking is no prob, but keep in mind a 350 with some good internals and 7000rpm will make serious power.

Late model Vettes arent the best the best things to go and heavily mod. They cost serious$$$ much like a 10 sec GTR. Have you thought about something old school like a 68 Camaro.

As for Police, well your driving will have a huge impact on how much attention they pay you. If the car bolted together properly, and driven responsibly then they more often then not leave you alone.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15390-r32-vs-c4-vette/#findComment-316468
Share on other sites

Soulja, I guess it depends on what the car is intended for and how long you plan to keep it.

Firstly the Vette. Having no 1st hand driving experience i'm a little lame on the subject but i've sat in a few (all post 91 models) and have to say they are smooth. The American muscle car i've really had more experience with is the Trans-Am.These are loud rumbling V8 monsters with plenty of squirt. I know there are Vette/Mustang forums you could look up to get more info. Coz the U.S. has plenty of juice to get these cars going. I know on Supraforums.com they regularly drag TT Supras & give em a run for their money. Vette's certainly have street presence. I agree with Roy, go the manual for performance gain.

The R32 GTR imho would be a little more expensive in terms of building into a street weapon (if that's ur intention). However a prang in either of these cars would make insurance scary. Personally i prefer the refinement and quality of the Japanese build - plus the availability of aftermarket gear is much easier to get for the GTR due to the recent surge in import popularity.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15390-r32-vs-c4-vette/#findComment-316617
Share on other sites

There R awesome deals going on PrestigeMotorsport (join their mailing list by going to their website It is heaps helpful wih plenty of info on cars you R interested in: prestigemotorsport.com.au) atm under new Sevs import laws there are rules which allow 15yr model (89) R32GTR's to be imported, prices range from about $15-$25 - Absolute bargain for the type of performance you get. However you can only import them beginning of January 2004. Unless you pay somethin like an extra 3-4 grand to import now.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15390-r32-vs-c4-vette/#findComment-316946
Share on other sites

Thanks but im already on the mainlist for p.m, is there any other placers?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15390-r32-vs-c4-vette/#findComment-317967
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Chef_32

corvettes are mad. very individual in these parts, don't really confuse them with other peoples since there aint that many around.

GTR's are a dream, but more common than a corvette, so people "think" less of them...

Tough choice???????/

Now you understand where im coming from :S :S :S

GTR Or Vette?

What ever i get i will surly post it on here for u guyz to see

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15390-r32-vs-c4-vette/#findComment-318014
Share on other sites

Originally posted by FUR105

y r these cars so cheap??

is there other costs involved??

These are 15 years old.

You won't get them until January next year.

Would it be fair to say these cars have had a hard life?

I mean I like them, just be realistic about a 1989 car of that complexity...

T.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15390-r32-vs-c4-vette/#findComment-318044
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...